August 10, 2023
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
Albergue Municipal – €7
Packed my bag and ready to go to France where I will begin my Camino walk. Feeling very nervous, anxious and fearful of the unknown. I don’t think I have forgotten to pack anything. My bag weighs 24Ibs/11kg but feels heavier than that. I might have packed a little more than I need. I hope I don’t have to throw anything away.
Flew from Leeds to Amsterdam to Paris to Biarritz. Upon my arrival at Biarritz Airport, I made friends with two other ladies who are also doing the Camino walk. We took the bus to Bayonne main bus station. The bus ride was a little over 20 minutes. In Bayonne, we went to a coffee shop while waiting for our train to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. We did a wee bit of sightseeing before getting on the train. Once we arrived in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port which was after 6:40PM, everything started to move so quickly. We walked for about 10 to 15 minutes in a hurry into the small city center to the Pilgrims’ Welcome Office. The staff were so nice to let us leave our heavy bags in the office while we went to the chapel for 7PM pilgrims’ mass.
We ran down the cobblestone street to the chapel for the pilgrim’s mass. Mass was beautiful. It was done in French. Kim, a young lady that I met at the airport, had the English version of the service on her phone so, we followed along.
At the end of mass, all pilgrims were called to the front for a special blessing😇About thirty of us stepped up to receive the blessing. It was during this blessing that I felt that my spiritual journey as a pilgrim had begun. It was a very emotional beautiful experience. Many locals in attendance came up and wished us good luck as we left the chapel.
About thirty-five minutes later, we walked back to the Pilgrims’ Welcome Office for our pilgrim’s credential, hostel-albergue listing, elevation map and a scallop shell – a symbol that identifies you as pilgrim on the Camino. You hang the shell on your backpack. I also received my first stamp in my Credencial aka Pilgrims Passport which will document my walk to Santiago and is needed to receive your Compostela. The lady helping us gave us a lot of oral vital information and advice for a successful Camino and we took it to heart.
Because I didn’t have a ‘bed’ reservation, I went ‘bed’ hunting until I found one for €12 in a hostel. The Refuge Municipal is where I stayed. The bed came with a clean fitted sheet, flat pillow, and a single use pillowcase and bedcover. I am glad I brought my sleeping bag.
After getting all situated in my ‘bed’, I met up with Kim at a local restaurant to get something to eat. That was a horrible idea. The food came late, and undercooked. Customer service was horrible. Couldn’t get them to bring water to our table… just horrible. That took two hours of our time. I should have stuck to plan A-pizza. By the time I got back to my bed, I was pooped and ready to sleep.
Day 1
August 11, 2023
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles (Napoleon Route)
La Posada Hostelera Casa – €88
18.39 miles / 29.6 km
Today was brutal!
My first day of the walk and it was the hardest thing I have ever done. I was up early-5AM. Separated heavy stuff from light stuff from my backpack. I checked out of the Albergue a couple of hours later and walked down the street to mail the heavy stuff to Roncesvalles.
I found a café and stopped for a very simple breakfast-cup of tea, dry toast and a banana. I linked up with Kim and we started to ascend the Pyrenees. By then, it was a little after 9AM. A few minutes into our walk, Luca, a young man from Italy joined us. Seeing the beautiful Pyrenees was amazing. The endless views of mountain peaks were just breath taking.
We strolled through the apple orchards and remarkably unique country houses. In Orisson, we halted for a tea break and to refill our water. The place was exceptionally beautiful. Kim chose to spend the night in Orisson, while Luca and I pressed on to Roncesvalles. Approximately four hours into our hike, just an hour after departing Lieu de I’ancien prieuré d’Orrisson, I nearly gave up.
My Heart, my five stented heart… my heart rate rose so high, beating so fast, the pain with every beat…Scary! Oh, my goodness… am I having another heart attack? Was this a mistake? What do I do? Tears welled up because I didn’t want this incredible experience to end because of my heart. I prayed fervently, acknowledging the limitless healing powers of my great sovereign God.
Throughout this ordeal, Luca, my “Camino angel,” remained by my side. Despite my insistence that he continue without me, he insisted on staying, and I was immensely grateful for his companionship.
It was so hot. There was no shade in sight. Our only shade in sight was from a small car that was parked in the distance. I didn’t think I was going to make it to that car, but I did. It took two hours for my heart to get back down to a ‘normal’ rate.
We continued our slow ascend and the whole time I was watching my heartrate and drinking lots of water. We didn’t get to the highest point until after 7PM! The highest point on this leg was over 4,500ft. The craziest thing is that about two hours before getting to the highest point, I just prayed and asked God to grant me the energy to make it to the top. Guess what?! I had this boost of energy to walk to the top with enough energy to encourage my “Camino angel” to dig deeper when he started to slow down😀
It was such an amazing feeling. We walked through the alpine-style meadows before weaving our way alongside leafy beech woods towards the Spanish border and the steep descent into Roncesvalles. Luca found a camping spot outside the village. I walked the last hour by myself. I arrived in Roncesvalles after 10 PM. Unfortunately for me, the albergue that had my belongings and were I was supposed to spend the night was closed. I found the only hotel that was open and could not wait to take a shower and sleep.
Day 2
August 12, 2023
Roncesvalles to Zubiri
Albergue Refuge Municipal – €9
13.98 miles / 22.5 km
Luca and I didn’t leave Roncesvalles until after 10AM. I was up early. Went to the albergue and picked up my belongings. Dropped them in my hotel room then went sightseeing. Found out Roncesvalles dates back to the 12th century. It has a year-round population of less than 25 people which was surprising. The monastery, Iglesia de la Colegiata de Santa Maria was the highlight.
Consecrated in 1219, it is Spain’s earliest gothic church. Roncesvalles is a small town. I literally stood in the middle of the town and saw everything the town has to offer. Went back to the hotel where Luca came and met me. We met a few pilgrims at the hotel. For some reason, they were all in a hurry. I don’t understand.
I packed up, had breakfast and started our walk to Zubiri. It was easy to find the Camino. We walked through the quiet dense forest before getting to Burguete. It is believed that way back in the 16th century, witches use to meet in these forests to hold their rituals. A few of them were burned at the stake by the authorities in Burguete. Goosebumps!
We walked through the hills, past wildflowers, past historical sites with gruesome history and past more beautiful chestnut horses. We stopped at Bar Dena Ona in Biskarreta for lunch. The clay and metal sculptures across the yard were an interesting sight.
I had a very caramelized onion and potato Spanish omelet. Very tasty. We crossed the Puente de la Rabia to enter Zubiri which was after 5PM. Found the albergue, cleaned up, ate then went to evening mass at Iglesia de San Esteban. Met more pilgrims from different nations. It was nice meeting them all. Did my laundry, journaled then went to sleep.
Day 3
August 13, 2023
Zubiri to Pamplona
Albergue Refuge Jesus y Maria – €11
13.38 miles / 21.53 km
We left Zubiri a few minutes after 9AM. We backtracked our steps across the Puente de la Rabia and started walking parallel to the river. We walked for two and a half hours then entered Zuriain. We stopped at La Parada de Zurian, a small beautiful riverside café with a sprawling green lawn.
The sandwiches were good. The upbeat fun music was a great addition to the atmosphere😊 We had planned on resting and getting a snack for an hour. Well, an hour turned into 3 hours which was ridiculous if you ask me. It was just too hot to walk. We couldn’t do it.
We left after 4PM. We continued our walk along the river past small villages and fields. Once we got to Zabaldika, Luca decided he was going to end his day here. We said our goodbyes and I carried on walking by myself. It felt weird walking alone at first. A couple of hours in, I started to appreciate the silence. I walked through the wheat fields and wildflowers then crossed the five-arched Romanesque bridge. Three miles from the bridge crossing, I walked through the Portal de Francia then along Pamplona’s medieval city walls.
It was so exciting walking in Pamplona. You can see the old and new Pamplona blending. I love Pamplona! Everyone here is so helpful, nice and gregarious. The cobblestone streets and vibrant life was a fun experience. I arrived Pamplona a few minutes after 7PM and it took me a good hour to find the Municipal Refuge Albergue. I kept stopping to take pictures and admiring the place. It took a lot of hand gestures and broken Spanish to find the albergue.
Day 4
August 14, 2023
Pamplona to Puente La Reina
Albergue Refuge Padres Reparadores – €7
11.93 miles / 19.2 km
I was up early today, and the first order of business was finding the post office to mail some of my stuff back to the UK. The lady at the albergue gave me directions to the post office. It was a short walk to get there. Turns out, I was carrying 4kg/8.82Ibs of unnecessary weight. I mailed the stuff, and I am much lighter 😊
From the post office, I did some sightseeing- walked to Catedral de Santa Maria la Real, built in 1387-1525, walked through the covered market ‘Mercado de Santo Domingo’ and then over to see Pomplona’s Casa Consistorial. I found my way back to the town hall square and found a nice cafe with WiFi. Pamplona is a beautiful old town with massive churches and great history.
Fun fact: El encierro “The Running of the Bulls” begun in the 14th century, with herders who brought the animals into the city for the bull fights centered on the Plaza del Castillo.
Guess who I ran into after leaving the café? Luca and Christian. I was happy to see them both. We walked around Pamplona for a bit before parting ways with Christian. He was ready to start walking to Puente La Reina. I wasn’t ready to, and Luca was spending the night in Pamplona. We spent about an hour sightseeing before we parted ways.
I walked along the well-marked urban path to Navarra university to check out their Pilgrim Station. I was disappointed to find that it’s only a stamp for your passport. I thought they’d be more. Oh well, nice campus. I followed the Camino along the campus and out into the countryside towards Zizur Menor. There was a bit of an incline to El Perdon.
I walked through long stretches of open space with no shade in sight. I took 3 breaks during the walk, and each time I stopped, I drunk lots of water. Unfortunately, there were no water fountains between Pamplona and Zariquiegui. I started to worry and began to rationalize my water. The decent to Uterga was a bit hard; lots of loose pebbles and stones.
I lost my yellow arrows in Uterga and had to rely on my disconnected ‘AllTrails’ app to show me the way. I stopped at an albergue in Muruzabal and used their WiFi to connect and reload my maps. Didn’t stay there too long. Carried on walking to Pente la Reina. I didn’t get into town until after 9PM. Thankfully, the Albergue Refuge Padres Reparadores had a few beds available. I was so tired. I showered and went around asking for a needle and thread because my backpack was falling apart and needed mending. Monika, young lady from the Czech Republic was kind enough to let me use her needle and thread. Went to bed soon after mending my bag.
Day 5
August 15, 2023
Puente La Reina to Estelle
Albergue Refuge Asso. ANFAS – €8
13.52 miles / 21.76 km
I was so tired last night. I barely slept. The two old guys on the bottom beds just talked and talked. When they finally went to sleep, they were both snoring louder than they were talking. I was the last one to check out at 8:50A. I did some sightseeing and looked for an ATM. Unfortunately, there is no ATM in town. I was told the next ATM will be in Estelle. I am out of euros, and I sure hope I find one today. I followed the way markers to Puente la Reina (Bridge of the Queen) out of town.
I passed by three very old churches and sadly they were all closed. Must have been too early. Supposedly, the statue of Nuestra Señora del Puy is displayed in Iglesia de San Pedro. Nuestra Señora del Puy was one of the Camino’s five black Madonnas. I carried on walking the dirt trail towards Mañeru. As I entered Mañeru, I ran into this old guy who spoke very little English and he was telling me how he’s never done the whole Camino but loves hiking to the top of the trail and back every morning. We spoke for a little and he turned around and left. Thirty minutes later, I hear someone calling, I turn around and it’s the same guy, bringing me fresh cold figs. He showed me how to eat them and helped balance my backpack. He was really nice.
After five hours of walking alone, I ran into an old lady from Massachusetts. Her boyfriend died last year, and his anniversary is coming up September 19. She wants to be in Santiago by that date. I could tell how much she misses him from the way she talked about him. We walked through the grapevines and at the top of the trail in Valle de Yerri, we found this beautifully laid out table with water and snacks for the pilgrims. What a wonderful gesture. We stopped in Lorca. She’s spending a night here and I need WiFi from the café🙂I spent a few minutes at the café. Met more pilgrims.
I left the café after a short break. I was alone again on the very uneven trail through the small towns and villages, cereal fields, vineyards and olive trees. I was in Estelle a little after 4PM. Checked into an albergue then went to Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa. This massive church has been around since the 12th century. It has these steep stone steps that take you to this beautiful multi-lobed ‘Mudéjar’ doorway. I walked through the doors into a very calming quiet empty church. I spent a good hour in there praying and reflecting. It was a very nice visit after a such a long walk. I left the church and went looking for an ATM which I found. Went sightseeing then made my way back to the albergue to eat, shower, journal and sleep.
Day 6
August 16, 2023
Estelle to Sanol
Albergue Karma – €7
20.23 miles / 32.56 km
The days are getting hotter and today, I decided to leave early so I don’t have to walk in the sun for too long. I left Estella at 5:28AM. It was a small climb through the vineyards of Bodegas Irache. There is a water and wine fountain at Bodegas IracheI. History has it that the water and wine fountain symbolize the first miracle Jesus performed- John 2:1-12.
It is tradition for pilgrims to drink from your scallop shell. Unfortunately, I missed out on the opportunity to partake in the tradition because I was there too early☹The wine spigot is turned on at 9AM. Maybe next time…the way markers led me through the vineyards, wheat fields and a small village before getting to Villamayor de Monjardin. This small village has a medieval church-Iglesia de San Andrés-built in the 12th century.
There is also the Castillo de Monjardín that sits at a 2,900 feet hill. I didn’t have the energy to walk the almost 3 miles trek up hill. Thank goodness I filled up my water bottle because there was no water fountain between Villamayor de Monjardín and Los Arcos, which is where I planned to spend the night. Because I was doing so well on time and the temperature was still in the mid 70s at 10AM, and also because there was still a couple of hours before the Albergue opened, I decided to carry on walking to Sansol 😊
Los Arcos was fun to walk through. There was a party atmosphere in the town center with “bull heads on wheels”, energizing music blasting from the café across from the Iglesia de Santa María de los Arcos which was built in the 12th century. Inside the Iglesia is a sculpture of Santa María de los Arcos, a 14th century Black Madonna carved from oak. I spent a few minutes in the church then did a little sightseeing then left the town through the Portal de Castilla, an arched gate that was part of the town’s defensive walls. Looking ahead into the distance, all I could see was open terrain, no shade whatsoever and the sun was shining ever so brightly.
This walk through the Rioja area of Navarra was interesting despite the burning sun. I enjoyed walking through the olive trees, cereal fields and what has become a common sight-the vineyards. I was walking alone today.
I finished listening to C S Lewis’ Mare Christianity audio book. A very thought-provoking book. I ran into familiar faces on the trail. Everyone seemed to be in their own thoughts. No one had time to chit-chat in this blazing sun. I was in Sansol after 1PM and the temperature was 86°F. I found a nice albergue with an actual comfortable bed and real sheets! I cleaned up, did my laundry with the same bar of soap that I used to shower. This is common practice on the Camino.
I was too tired to eat. I just wanted to prop my feet up and sleep. When I woke up, the albergue was full of pilgrims. Mostly familiar faces which was nice to see. I walked to the only grocery store and bought a box of Gazpacho, bread and Chorizo for dinner. This is starting to get old. Sansol is a very small hamlet with friendly people. I walked over to the Chapel with one other pilgrim. I spent a good half hour in there before going back to the albergue. I went to bed early because I have an early day tomorrow.
Day 7
August 17, 2023
Sanol to Navarrete
Albergue Refuge Municipal Pérégrinos – €10
18.52 miles / 29.81 km
Today I officially left Navarra and journeyed into Rioja. I left Sansol at 3:28AM and planned to walk to Logroño. It was so nice, cool and quiet walking this early and I loved it. I used my headlight for the first time. I walked that steep mountain to Torres del Río where I found another 12th century church run by volunteers. The church was obviously closed when I walked through the town. The hills and open stretches covered in wheat, grapevines, olive groves made for an interesting terrain. I also started to notice stone cairns built by pilgrims. Guess what I did?… I built one too 😊 with six stones. Took me a while, but I did it!
I was in Viana a little after 6:30AM. Viana is an interesting 13th century cluster of villages on a hill. A lot of historical battles happened here between Navarra and Castile. The tomb of Cesar Borgia, son of Pope Alexander VI is on the sidewalk of the Iglesia de Santa María. He defended Navarra during a siege against Viana in 1507… interesting history. About an hour into Viana surrounded by grapevines, I met Patrice on the trail. He is from France and like me, he started his Camino in Saint Jean… we had a nice walk through the vineyards and wheat fields. We walked past Pantano de la Cañas, an artificial lake full of fish with lots of birdlife. We started to see the city of Logroño in the distance.
We passed through a small pine forest then past a civil war memorial honoring a mass grave from the 1930s. We finally crossed the Erbo River which carries with it an interesting “Tale of the Fox”. The Erbo River is also the widest river on the Camino. Patrice and I talked all the way into Logroño, and I must say, I did well on time.
We were in Logroño at 8:46A. We went looking for an albergue but found out they were all opening after 2PM. We decided to take in the sights of Logroño including the Iglesia de Santiago Real. We spent a few minutes inside. Then went to see a 16th century Baroque and Logroño’s Plaza de Santiago with the “Game of the Goose” and historic pilgrim fountain that has been around since the Middle Ages.
Logroño is a big city with a rich history dating back to Roman times. It was originally founded by the Romans as a settlement known as “Villa de Logroño”. It would be nice to come back and see more of this beautiful historical city. After looking at the map, we decided to carry on walking to Navarrete, a town built in the 12th century by the “Knights of the Holy Sepulchre” which is only 8 miles from Logroño. The first 2 or so miles where spent walking on asphalt. I couldn’t wait to get on the dusty trail. As we got closer to Navarrete, we passed the ruins of the Hospital de San Juan de Acre. It was founded in 1185 to house and heal pilgrims.
The Camino led us to the center of the town which is centered around Iglesia de la Asunción from the 16th century. The church like most churches here is dominated by gold on the inside. There is some sort of festival going on. There is a party atmosphere all around. We found an albergue and checked ourselves in, cleaned up, did our laundry then went out and did some sightseeing. Stopped at a bar and tried my first sangria-Patrice’ recommendation. Went to a small deli-like store and grabbed some hot food for the night then went and saw a live band play music. Looks like this party will go on for a while. I have enjoyed my visit here. Would love to come back someday. Another early morning walk awaits tomorrow morning. For now, journal and sleep.
Day 8
August 18, 2023
Navarrete to Azofra
Albergue Refuge Municipal and Paroissial – €10
15.12 miles / 24.33 km
We departed Navarrete a little after 4:00A and the party was still going on! Goodness gracious! The music was so loud, and the partygoers were full of energy. Upon passing the party scene, about ten minutes into our walk, Patrice realized that he forgot his walking sticks at the albergue. He went back to retrive them, and I carried on walking. A slight ascent awaited us at Ventosa. It is known for being on the original medieval Camino. Patrice successfully retrieved his walking sticks and caught up to me in Ventosa a few minutes before sunrise.
Witnessing the sunrise was truly enchanting. The town remained in slumber as we strolled through. It was a steady climb up hill from Ventosa to Alto de San Antón-a great spot to see the vineyards around us and take lots of pictures 😊 On our way down hill, through Alesón, we came upon ‘Poyo de Roldán’, a beehive shaped structure named after Charlemagne’s officer who is said to have fought and defeated the giant Ferragut a Syrian giant believed to have been a descendant of Goliath. We were in Nájera a little after 8:40AM.
We crossed the Najerilla river and continued to follow the way markers to Azofra. One interesting and unique thing about Nájera is how the old town and monastery are built into the red cliff walls of Monasterio de Santa María la Real. Very beautiful structures to look at.
We covered a lot of ground and made it to Azofra before the temperatures were high. It was after 10:15AM when we arrived. Went and found our albergue and it wasn’t opening until 1PM. We went back to a café that we passed when we entered the town and grabbed a bite then went to the tall Iglesia de Nuestra Señore de los Angeles. It was closed of course.
Apparently, in the middle-ages, the church grounds also served as burial grounds for pilgrims. There wasn’t much to see in Azofra. By the time we finished seeing everything Azofra had to offer, it was time to check in at the albergue. We cleaned up, did our laundry and slept. Later, we went to the only store in town for some fruit and to the restaurant where I had a tuna and tomato sandwich.
REFLECTIONS
Reflecting on my first nine days walking the Camino has been an incredibly transformative experience. From the initial nerves and anxiety as I packed my bag and set out for France, to the breathtaking landscapes of the Pyrenees, each day brought a mix of challenges, camaraderie, and spiritual moments.
The weight of my backpack, both physical and metaphorical, felt heavier than the 24 lbs/11 kg it actually was. Yet, as I walked through the picturesque landscapes and made friends with fellow pilgrims, I realized the importance of shedding unnecessary burdens and embracing the unknown.
The emotional and spiritual aspect of this pilgrimage became palpable during the pilgrims’ mass and the special blessing, marking the true beginning of my spiritual journey. The ascent of the Pyrenees on the first day was both awe-inspiring and physically demanding. As my heart raced and doubts crept in, the support of my newfound friend Luca, my “Camino angel,” became a lifeline.
Each day unfolded with its own unique challenges and discoveries. From the historical richness of Roncesvalles to the vibrant streets of Pamplona, and the quiet beauty of Zubiri, I’ve encountered both the cultural and historical facets of the Camino. The small acts of kindness, such as the old man sharing fresh figs or the shared meals and conversations, highlight the sense of community and shared humanity among pilgrims.
The journey goes beyond the physical trek. Stone cairns, sunlit landscapes, and moments of reflection in churches have become symbols of personal introspection. I’ve learnt that The Camino is not just a walk; it’s a profound exploration of self, faith, and connection. It is more than a destination; it’s a transformative experience, and I eagerly anticipate the lessons and connections that lie ahead on the remaining path to Santiago.
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