Day 11.
A Short Walk, a New Friend, and the Magic of Figeac
Saint-Jean-Mirabel to Figeac
August 24, 2024 | 10.76 miles / 17.3 km
Gîte: Gîte d’étape Le Coquelicot (€22 Bed)
A Proper Camino Breakfast
Today started with a wonderful Camino breakfast. Coffee in a bowl, soft bread, a boiled egg, cheese, and a cup of yogurt. I was starving, having skipped dinner last night. It took me a while to pack up and get through the payment process, so by the time I left, it was after 8:00 AM. The gîte was tucked behind the Church of Saint-Jean, built in the 18th century. Just outside the church is a big cross; and this is where I ran into Jean, a fellow pilgrim who I recognized from the breakfast table (he passed me the cheese!). We hit it off immediately, and just like that, we set off together toward Figeac.
A Gentle Walk with Good Company
Jean and I began the short, peaceful walk from Saint-Jean-Mirabel to Figeac. The route was lovely. Rolling through rural farmland, country lanes, and scattered woods. Jean is French-Canadian and speaks fluent English, which made for rich conversation the entire way. The terrain was mostly gentle, with one steep ascent that gave way to a gradual descent as we neared Figeac. We chatted about life, travel, and the Camino itself. One of the most beautiful parts of today was noticing the shift in the landscape as we left the Aveyron region and entered Le Lot. We climbed a steep ascent at one point, and as we approached Figeac, the trail began to descend, offering scenic views of church spires and tiled rooftops nestled along the Célé River.
Exploring Historic Figeac
We arrived before noon. Jean had a reservation, so we dropped off his bag at his gîte before heading out to explore. Our first stop was Église Notre-Dame-du-Puy, a church rebuilt in the 13th century and later restored after the Wars of Religion. It’s perched on a hill overlooking the town, and the climb was absolutely worth it. Inside, I was stunned by the monumental Baroque altarpiece. Carved out of walnut wood, though it looked more like bronze. The craftsmanship was breathtaking.
Markets, Monuments, and the Rosetta Stone
Outside the church was a quiet square, and from there, we strolled through the cobbled streets of Figeac, soaking in its rich history and charm. Figeac is the birthplace of Jean-François Champollion, the man who deciphered the Rosetta Stone. On the way to Place des Écritures, we stumbled into the bustling Saturday market. The stalls were overflowing with local cheeses, olives (so many kinds!), fresh produce, and handcrafted items. If I had the money, I would’ve bought olives in every variety, but instead, I let them live on in my memory.
We made our way to Place des Écritures, where a monumental replica of the Rosetta Stone is engraved into the pavement. A beautiful tribute to his legacy.
From there, we visited Église Saint-Sauveur, the most iconic church in town. Originally founded in the 9th century by Benedictine monks from Conques, it featured both Romanesque and Gothic architecture. The carved portal, vaulted ceilings, and quiet, reverent atmosphere gave it a sacred timelessness.
Lunch, Library, and a Change of Plans
We stopped at the Office of Tourism for a stamp and WiFi. While checking my email, I saw a message that needed my urgent attention, so we headed to the public library in hopes of printing out documents. I wasn’t able to print out anything. By then, everything was closing for lunch. We wandered back to the city center and found a restaurant with outdoor seating. I took the waiter’s recommendation. A salad bowl filled with fresh vegetables, duck meat, walnuts, and foie gras on a slice of bread. Perfection.
With rain in the forecast and plans to continue on to Balajou clearly out the window, I started to panic a little about where I’d sleep. We visited a couple of gîtes but they were full. Jean called his gîte and thankfully, they had a bed for me. What a relief!
We returned to the gîte, showered, and did laundry before heading back out for dinner. I opted for dessert because… why not? By the time we got back to the gîte, I was ready to collapse. Jean paid for my meals today. He didn’t have to, and I’m incredibly grateful for his kindness.
Figeac: A Camino Gem
Figeac really left an impression on me. Its medieval architecture, cobbled streets, vibrant market, and deep historical roots all added to my Camino experience.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
If you’re walking into a larger town like Figeac on a weekend, especially market day. Have a reservation or a backup plan. And don’t be afraid to ask a fellow pilgrim for help. Kindness flows freely on the Camino.
Day 12.
Climbing High and Letting Go
Figeac to Le Pigeonnaire
August 25, 2024 | 15.88 miles / 25.56 km
Gîte: Gîte de la Tounisse (€16 Bed)
Up Before the Sun
What a day it was! I was up at 5:25 AM and couldn’t wait to leave the gîte. I’d been bitten by a bed bug and was itching to get out, literally. I left soon after 6:00 AM. There was one other pilgrim leaving from the neighboring gîte. The streets were completely silent. We were the only ones up and walking that early.
A Long Climb Out of Figeac
It was a steady, winding walk out of the city. We followed the familiar white and red GR65 stripes that led us uphill toward the plateau above Figeac. The climb out took us through shaded woodlands and past old stone farmhouses. When I paused to look back over Figeac, the views were absolutely beautiful. Worth the effort. I stood there for a while, just taking it all in and reflecting on how far I’d come on this journey.
Unexpected Camino Company
From the top of the climb, the terrain undulated through woodland paths and farmland on the way to Le Pigeonnier. Somewhere along the way, I met Claire, a young French woman also walking solo. We fell into step and talked for over two hours, covering everything from travel to life on the Camino. She was warm, thoughtful, and kind. Her company made the kilometers melt away.
In Béduer, we reached a crossroads where Claire took the GR651 detour toward Cajarc. She said it was stunning and highly recommended it. I’m intrigued. We parted ways there, and I felt her absence almost immediately. Camino friendships are like that. Brief but intense, and they leave a mark.
The One That Got Left Behind
About a mile after Claire and I parted ways, I realized I’d left my walking stick back at the fork. My heart sank. It was a cool stick, one I’d carried for days, and I hated losing it. Still, I reminded myself, on the Camino, you learn to let go of things, whether it’s a walking stick or expectations.
Land of Stone and Silence
The landscape today was peaceful and full of ancient stories, rolling hills, mossy dolmens, and stone crosses. I loved seeing the traditional stone shelters and dovecotes (“pigeonniers”) that give this hamlet its name. Le Pigeonnier itself is small and quiet, more a scattering of farm buildings than a village.
Simple Pleasures
I found my gîte, which was clean, cozy, and had a kind host. I showered, did laundry, and met the resident dogs. One of them had a quirky obsession with biting rocks, which made me laugh. Dinner was simple and the conversation mostly in French, so I stayed quiet and let the voices become a gentle hum in the background. I journaled before bed, thinking about the shift in pace from the buzz of Figeac to today’s calm and solitude.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Don’t underestimate the GR651 detour. It’s said to be one of the most scenic parts of the Camino in this region. Also, if you find a great walking stick… don’t forget it at a fork in the road.
Day 13.
Quiet Forests and a Slice of Kindness
Le Pigeonnaire to Limogne-en-Quercy
August 26, 2024 | 17.50 miles / 28.16 km
Gîte: La Halle Stopover Gîte (€21 Bed)
Into the Darkness
I left the gîte right at 6:00 AM. It was still dark, and I had to use my flashlight to find my way back to the GR65. The forest path was peaceful and quiet, the kind of quiet that wraps around you. Just birdsong, the soft crunch of gravel beneath my boots, and the breeze shifting through the trees. As the sun rose, it slowly lit up the trail in golden hues, and I felt a quiet relief wash over me.
A Mountain and a Memory
The first hour was an uphill climb. At the top, a wave of emotion hit me. Raw and unexpected. Losing my mother just four months ago is still fresh. I let myself feel it. Grieve a little. Cry a little. Then, I kept walking, letting the terrain help carry me forward. The trail evened out into gently rolling hills and open stretches. Woodland paths gave way to quiet country roads and agricultural fields. I passed ancient dolmens and walked alongside the low, dry-stone walls that are such a signature of this region of La Causse.
Thirst and Serendipity
I must’ve been walking slower than usual because everyone seemed to pass me. There were no rest areas on this stretch, and no water. I ran out and started to get a bit anxious. Just when I needed it most, I stumbled upon a little miracle: a makeshift café run by an old man in the middle of nowhere. Coffee was just €1.00, and there was water. I sat, rested, and sipped my coffee slowly. As I was about to leave, he handed me a slice of apple pie for the road. That unexpected kindness nearly brought me to tears again.
Unexpected Beauty
Later on, I came across a beautiful pilgrim shelter made entirely from shells. It was artistically done and radiated warmth. Sadly, it didn’t have water or toilets, so it’s not ideal for an overnight stay, but it made an impression. A small reminder that beauty and thoughtfulness appear even in the most remote places.
Arrival in Limogne-en-Quercy
Just a few miles before town, Jean texted to say he’d already booked a gîte for us in the heart of the village. I arrived first at La Halle Stopover Gîte, settled in, showered, did my laundry, and then went in search of WiFi. I found a spot, updated my family, and wandered around town a bit.
Limogne-en-Quercy is a small, welcoming market town. It has everything a pilgrim needs; small grocery store, pharmacy, bakery, cafés, and even a pilgrim office and campsite. I learned it used to be known for its truffle markets. Such a lovely place to rest.
A Full Table and Full Hearts
When I got back to the gîte, more familiar faces had checked in—Gabrielle, Emma, and a few others. Jean arrived a little after 4:00 PM carrying food for everyone. Seeing him made me so happy. We cooked together and shared a joyful dinner. The evening stretched long with laughter and stories. We didn’t go to bed until after 11:00 PM.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Always carry extra water. Some stages can surprise you with long, dry stretches. And keep an eye out for the little makeshift cafés or refreshment stops. They’re often humble but filled with Camino magic.
Day 14.
Honest Paths and Shared Tables
Limogne-en-Quercy to Mas de Vers
August 27, 2024 | 14.70 miles / 23.66 km
Gîte: Gîte de Poudally (€40 B&B) ♥
Slow Start, Strong Coffee
I woke up a little after 6:30 AM, dressed quickly, and went downstairs to finish journaling. To my surprise, the kitchen was empty. Everyone was still sleeping in. By 7:30, the others trickled in, except Jean. We pieced together a Camino-style breakfast: fruit, wheat crackers, and leftovers from the night before. One of the girls shared instant coffee sachets. So thoughtful and much appreciated. Jean finally emerged, and after cleaning up the kitchen, we headed out. Not far from town, we found a bar that was already open, and Jean insisted we stop for “a real cup of coffee.” I didn’t argue.
Whispers of the Trail
Coffee warmed us up for the trail, and soon we were back on the GR65. It felt like the path swallowed us whole again. Oak woods, moss-covered stones, and that quiet hum you only find deep in Les Causses Natural Park, then through the Réserve Naturelle d’Intérêt Géologique. The trail was steady, soft, and uneventful. No cafés, no water stops. Just dry-stone walls crumbling and enduring, and the occasional cazelle, the old stone huts once used by shepherds. I love that they’re still here, standing sentinel over the trail, watching pilgrims pass.
Picnic in Bach
We stopped in Bach around midday and shared lunch with Gabrielle, Emma, and a few other pilgrims. It was simple, relaxed, and lovely. No dramatic views or challenges today. Just steady walking and quiet company. Sometimes, that’s all you need.
Arrival in Mas de Vers
Lalbenque appeared all at once. Warm stone houses, red-tiled roofs, sleepy charm. About 2 km before Mas de Vers, we began seeing signs for our gîte. The final stretch followed a charming botanical trail that led us straight to Gîte de Poudally, a beautifully restored farmhouse tucked away in peaceful surroundings. Elsa and Manu welcomed us with chilled lemonade, which tasted like heaven.
A Meal to Remember
The room was clean and cozy. Perfect for a tired pilgrim. I had hoped to nap before dinner, but a mosquito had other plans and bit me square on the forehead. So much for that. I ended up watching Passengers on my phone and paused just in time for dinner.
And what dinner it was. We started with an eggplant pie with veal and nuts. Unexpected and delicious. The main course was pasta with lamb so tender it fell apart in the sauce. Dessert was chocolate mousse pudding, followed by herbal tea. Everything was perfect.
New Friends, Old Paths
At the table, I met Lisa and Curry, an Australian couple I’d seen them often on the trail. I always greeted them with “bonjour,” so I assumed they were French. Turns out, they thought the same about me! We had a good laugh over that. I also met Patrick from Germany, who was full of life and laughter. Jean surprised me by saying his Camino ends in ten days. I’d thought he was going all the way to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. He plans to come back next year to continue. Another reminder that the Camino has its own rhythm for each of us.
The gîte even has a swimming pool, but I hadn’t packed a swimsuit. Next time.
A Quiet Kind of Beautiful
Today wasn’t flashy. No cathedrals. No sweeping vistas. But it was steady, peaceful, and filled with good conversation. And that’s the kind of day I’m learning to treasure.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Pack a swimsuit. You never know when a pool will show up on the Camino! Also, don’t underestimate the power of shared meals and random chats. They’re the heart of this journey.
Day 15.
A City in a Bend of the River
Mas de Vers to Cahors
August 28, 2024 | 15.16 miles / 24.4 km
Gîte: Le Petit Refuge (€24 B&B) ♥
Soft Trails and Stone Companions
I woke up before my alarm today; always a good sign. Breakfast was already laid out when I got to the dining room, healthy and generous. We ate, packed up, and hit the trail by 7:00 AM. The path started soft and shaded, winding through oak woods and lined with the old dry-stone walls that have become such familiar companions. The day’s stage was intentionally short. We wanted to arrive in Cahors early enough to explore the city.
Along the way, we passed more cazelles tucked into the underbrush. Those little stone shepherd huts that seem like fossils of a quieter world. About 8 or 9 kilometers in, the terrain started to rise. We were nearing Mont Saint-Cyr, the hill that overlooks Cahors. The climb wasn’t long, but it was sharp. My heart was working overtime by the time we reached the top.
The View That Took My Breath Away
And then, there it was. Cahors. The whole city curled gracefully in a bend of the Lot River, rooftops glowing in the morning sun. The Pont Valentré stood proud with its three towers and legendary arches. It was easily one of the most breathtaking views I’ve seen on the Camino. We stood there for a while, quiet, taking it in. Gratitude, excitement, and a kind of disbelief washed over me. I had walked here. That feeling-no photo can capture it.
City Heat and Legends
The descent into Cahors was steep and winding, bringing us down into the buzz of a city alive with summer energy. We dropped off our bags at the Office of Tourism and got our pilgrim passports stamped. With our loads lightened, we wandered into the heat. It was hot. We found a bar and ordered sparkling lemonade and French fries with cucumber sauce. Odd combo, but surprisingly refreshing.
Next, we crossed the Pont Valentré itself, that gorgeous medieval bridge with its towers and myths. Legend has it the architect made a deal with the devil to finish the bridge, and now one of the tower stones keeps falling out, thanks to the devil’s curse. Real or not, walking across that bridge felt powerful, like stepping into a story.
Museums, Cloisters, and History
On the far side of the bridge, we found La Maison de l’Eau; the Water Museum housed in an old pumping station. It offered a thoughtful look into Cahors’ relationship with water through history, including the nearby Chartreux fountain and the bridge itself. It also touched on global water issues. An unexpected but worthwhile stop.
We walked back to Boulevard Gambetta, the line dividing old and new Cahors. There, we ran into Emma and Gabrielle again. Always a joy. We picked up our bags and made our way to Cathédrale Saint-Étienne. This UNESCO World Heritage site is stunning. We sat quietly in its cool cloister, surrounded by carved columns and Romanesque arches. The tympanum over the main portal is especially beautiful. The whole place reminded me of the monasteries along the Camino in Spain. Full of quiet power.
We ended our tour at Maison du Patrimoine, a beautifully preserved building that shows the architectural evolution of Cahors from the Middle Ages to today. From there, it was a walk uphill to our gîte.
A Quiet Evening
Le Petit Refuge was warm and welcoming. The hostess greeted us with cold peppermint and licorice water. New to me, but surprisingly good. I showered, did laundry, and caught up in my journal. I was so tired I skipped dinner and fell asleep early.
One of Those Days I’ll Always Remember
Today felt like a milestone. Not because of the distance, but because of the arrival. Cahors is a special place, and standing above it after walking all that way was a moment I’ll carry with me. The Camino continues tomorrow, but today… today was one to remember.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Plan a short walking day into Cahors. You’ll want the time (and energy) to explore the city. And don’t skip the view from Mont Saint-Cyr!
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