Le Puy to Rieutort-d’Aubrac

Day 2.

The First Steps on the GR65 — Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Privat-d’Allier

August 15, 2024 | 16.2 miles / 26.07 km

Gîte: Accueil Randonneurs, Saint-Privat-d’Allier (€24.50 B&B)

I was up at 6:30 AM. Isabelle, our kind hostess, had already prepared a hearty and healthy breakfast for us. Before I left, she handed me a bottle of water — a gesture I appreciated even more than usual because I’d forgotten mine… back in California. Oops.

Margot and I left the gîte together and made our way to the 12th-century Romanesque Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. When we reached the steps, Margot stopped. She told me she wasn’t religious and didn’t want to go in. I wished her well and said I hoped we’d meet again on the trail — though I forgot to get her contact information. I hope our paths cross again. You meet people so quickly on the Camino, and sometimes they’re gone just as fast.

Inside the cathedral, I was surprised to see so many pilgrims. The church was packed for the morning pilgrims’ mass. I placed my backpack on the floor alongside more than a hundred others, and was ushered to my seat. The mass was in French, but I still followed along, standing, sitting, kneeling — muscle memory from countless Catholic services over the years. Even without full understanding, I knew what was being said.

Looking around the massive stone chapel, I felt a swell of emotion. How many pilgrims had walked through these doors before me? How many prayers whispered, tears shed, feet aching with anticipation for the journey ahead? And now — here I was, one of them.

After the service, we were each asked to introduce ourselves. When the priest offered a blessing for the pilgrims, I realized I was the only one from America. Another quiet reminder: I’ve traveled a long way to be here.

Just a few steps away from the cathedral is the Pilgrims’ Office, where I purchased my Camino passport for €5. With that, I officially stepped onto the GR65, the Chemin du Puy.

Right away, I noticed that the trail markers were different from those on the Spanish Camino. It was a crash course in wayfinding — and I had to learn fast to avoid getting lost!

Across the Velay Massif

The trail took me through the lush mountains of the Velay Massif, and I found myself stopping often just to soak in the breathtaking scenery. Rolling hills, green valleys, ancient stone paths — it was almost too much beauty to take in all at once.

Along the way, I met Adonai and Louis, two kind and enthusiastic young men walking their first Camino. They recognized me from the cathedral, and we walked together for a few hours. I love that about the Camino — even brief connections feel meaningful.

My plan was to stop in Montbonnet, but when I arrived, I found that all the gîtes were full. Tired and a little discouraged, I had no choice but to walk on to the next village, Saint-Privat-d’Allier.

A Bed at Last

Thankfully, the first gîte I came across had a bed. Before I could check in, though, I had to sit through a 20-minute orientation from the host about the rules of the house. I was exhausted, but I listened politely and finally made it to my room — a clean, pristine bed that looked like heaven.

I showered, washed my clothes, and promptly fell asleep. I woke up at 11:20 PM and started journaling, in case you’re wondering. Yes, I’d gone to bed sometime around 6:45 PM. I slept like a log.

🥾 Pilgrim Tip: Always Have a Backup Plan (and Keep Walking)

Accommodation can fill up fast in smaller villages — especially in high season. If your first choice doesn’t have a bed, don’t panic. The Camino always finds a way. Be flexible, and don’t be afraid to walk a little further — your bed (and maybe even a great story) might be waiting in the next town.

Day 3.

Grace in the Unexpected — Saint-Privat-d’Allier to La Clauze

August 16, 2024 | 18.01 miles / 28.98 km

Gîte: The Maison de la Béate Refuge

I woke up at 6:30 AM, just as my roommate was already packed and ready to go. I quickly got dressed and went down for breakfast — which, sadly, was disappointing for the €7.50 price tag. My roommate and I left the gîte a little after 8:00 AM. It was a cool, crisp morning — perfect for walking.

Speed Walking and Scenic Climbing

For the first hour or so, I found myself fast-walking alongside a young woman whose name I’ve forgotten — mostly because she was walking at lightning speed. I couldn’t understand why, and before long, we parted ways. She wanted to go faster, and I was content to walk at my own pace.Today’s walk was physically demanding — lots of ascents and descents that challenged my heart, legs and lungs. But the effort was worth it. I was surrounded by the stunning views of the Velay Massif and the Gévaudan Plateau.

I passed through the charming little hamlets of Rochegude, Combriaux, and Montaure — each one more picturesque than the last. I walked slowly and carefully, not wanting to risk injury on the rocky paths. This part of the trail was all about presence and caution, one step at a time.

Rejection in Saugues

By mid-afternoon, I reached Saugues, where I’d planned to spend the night. I walked into a gîte hoping to secure a bed — but was unexpectedly turned away. What hurt most was realizing that others, who also had no reservations, were being welcomed in.

It was painfully clear that the rejection had to do with the color of my skin.

I stood there feeling both sad and heartbroken. It’s not something I expected to face on the Camino. But I reminded myself: you won’t dampen my spirit. This journey is mine, and I won’t let anyone take that away from me.

Refuge and Camaraderie in La Clauze

So, I kept walking.

A few kilometers later, in the hamlet of La Clauze, I ran into Adonai and Louis at a water fountain. They had already heard about what had happened in Saugues. News travels fast on the Camino. They were kind, encouraging me to stay strong and keep going. They told me about a refuge nearby that might be empty. I found it — and it turned out to be exactly what I needed.

La Maison de la Béate Refuge is a renovated stone house from 1835, maintained by the local municipality for pilgrims. Inside, there’s a big wooden table, chairs, benches, and even a small chapel space. There’s no electricity, but there’s a wood stove, blankets, and just enough warmth and shelter to make it feel like a haven.

Across from the refuge, there’s a water fountain and dry toilets. By dusk, eight of us were sharing the space. We pooled our food, shared stories, and laughed around the table.

Later, I walked next door and asked a local man if I could charge my phone and battery pack. Without hesitation, he welcomed me in. What a beautiful way to end the day — after feeling shut out, to be welcomed with such generosity.

A Tiny Reminder

I did notice a blister forming on my left big toe. It doesn’t look too bad, but I’m surprised — I usually wrap all my toes in the morning. Not sure how I missed this one. Just another gentle reminder to slow down and check in with myself.

🥾 Pilgrim Tip: The Camino Is Not Always Fair — Walk On Anyway

Not every moment on the Camino is kind. But the kindness still outweighs the rest. If you encounter rejection or unfair treatment, don’t let it define your day. There’s always another village, another open door, another human being willing to offer shelter or a smile. The Camino provides — and sometimes it does so in the most unexpected places.

Day 4.

Rejection and Revelation — La Clauze to Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole

August 17, 2024 | 16.67 miles / 26.83 km

Gîte: Hôtel du Centre, Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole (€17.30 for a bed)

I was up and ready to walk just after 6:40 AM. The sunrise was gentle — not quite the dramatic sky I’d hoped for, but still a beautiful, peaceful start. The trail was mostly quiet. For the first hour, it was just me and two other pilgrims walking in silence through the cool morning.

Through Cow Country and New Connections

Passing through the tiny hamlet of Le Falzet was… memorable. The unmistakable scent of cow manure hung thick in the air. Rural charm, I suppose.Later on, I stopped in Domine du Sauvage, where I met a few new pilgrims — French, of course, and happy to chat. It’s always heartwarming how eager people are to connect, even with language barriers.

I reached Le Rouget in good time and stopped at a gîte hoping for a bed. The woman there was incredibly kind — she couldn’t accommodate me because she only accepted reservations, but she offered me cookies and made a phone call on my behalf. A few minutes later, she told me her mother-in-law had space and would be waiting with a cold drink just 700 meters off the trail. Grateful, I thanked her and set off.

Turned Away, Again

When I arrived, I saw an elderly woman standing outside with a drink in hand. As I got closer, she set the glass down and motioned for me to stop.

She looked at me and said, “Elle ne m’a pas dit que tu étais noir.”

(She didn’t tell me you were Black.)

I asked her to repeat it into my translator — maybe I had misunderstood.

I hadn’t.

I was turned away. Again.

So I did what pilgrims do — I walked on.

A Blessing in Disguise

I sat on a large rock under a tree, checked my map, and saw the next town was about 3.2 km (2 miles) away. As it turns out, that rejection led me to a chance encounter that made my entire day.

About a kilometer in, I met an amazing local woman who was on holiday. She worked at a hospital nearby and spoke excellent English. She offered to guide me and four other pilgrims around Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole, and we gratefully accepted.A Personal Tour of Saint-Alban

She was a brilliant storyteller. As we wandered through the village, she pointed out monuments and told us the rich history of the region. The highlight was the Château de Saint-Alban, with its striking pink sandstone arches.

This castle, which dates back to at least the 12th century, played a role in the efforts to stop the infamous Beast of Gévaudan in 1764. In 1821, it was converted into a psychiatric hospital, becoming renowned under the care of Brother Hilarion for its humane treatment of patients.

Today, the castle houses the tourist office and frequently hosts exhibitions and performances in its grand courtyard. Such an unexpected, enriching experience — all because I kept walking.

Just after 3 PM, the skies opened up. Rain poured down, and we had to cut the tour short.

A Warm Ending

I found my bed for the night at Hôtel du Centre, a multistory building with a 10-bed dorm. The setup was simple — paper covers on the mattresses — but clean and comfortable. The hostess was kind, and I settled in with a hot shower and laundry.I met Amanda from Australia, a fellow solo pilgrim. We clicked instantly. After a quick grocery run for dinner and the next day’s breakfast, we returned to the gîte, where more of my Camino family had begun arriving.

Amanda and I shared dinner on the rooftop, watching the rain pass. Despite the sting of rejection earlier, I ended the day surrounded by community and kindness.

🥾 Pilgrim Tip: Sometimes the Detour Is the Camino

Rejection can feel brutal — especially when it feels personal. But the Camino has a way of redirecting you toward exactly where you need to be. Stay open, walk on, and remember: your journey is unfolding just as it should.

Day 5.

Cows, Forests, Heartbeats & an Old Bakery

Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole to Rieutort-d’Aubrac

August 18, 2024 | 23.08 miles / 37.14 km

Gîte: The Old Bakery, Rieutort-d’Aubrac

Amanda and I set off just after 7:30 AM. It was a beautiful, peaceful morning — the kind of morning that makes you grateful to be out walking, with the trail mostly to ourselves.

We made our way through the quiet Rhone Alps valley, surrounded by views that were, quite honestly, breathtaking. About an hour in, Amanda was ready for her morning coffee stop. It was too soon for me, so we said our goodbyes, and I continued on solo.

The Spruce Forest & the Cow Gate Ballet

The highlight of the day for me was walking through a stunning Spruce Forest. The path was quiet, cool, and green — the kind of place that makes you slow down just to soak it in.

From the forest, I followed gravel roads and winding trails edged by stonewalls and hedgerows, crossing active farmland. I must have passed through at least 20 gates — each one opened and closed with care, so as not to let the cows roam where they shouldn’t.

A little PSA to fellow pilgrims: Be respectful of farm property. These trails go right through working farms, and those gates matter. Don’t be that pilgrim who lets the cows out!

Palpitations and Prayer

Somewhere between the cow farms and the forest paths, I started feeling a few heart palpitations and skipped beats. Not gonna lie — it shook me a bit. I prayed silently and pushed myself until I reached the town of Aumont-Aubrac in the Lozère Valley.

I headed straight to Église Saint-Étienne, a beautiful little church that was the perfect place to rest and gather myself. Sitting quietly in that sanctuary felt grounding.

Afterward, I got something to eat, caught up with some fellow pilgrims, and soaked in the charming streets of Aumont-Aubrac. Most pilgrims were calling it a day there — but not me.Sticker Shock in Les Gentianes

Two other pilgrims and I continued on, aiming to spend the night in Les Gentianes. We finally arrived, tired but hopeful. The only gîte available had beds — for €90 each.

Ninety euros! For a dorm bed! No thank you.

Luckily, one of the girls found an alternative: a resting place for pilgrims in Rieutort-d’Aubrac, about 2.5 miles (4.02 km) further. It had no blankets, but we all had sleeping bags and figured we could tough it out. Off we went.The Old Bakery Surprise

When we got to Rieutort-d’Aubrac, we burst into laughter. The so-called “resting place” was in fact a tiny, decommissioned bakery — yes, a literal old bakery, right in the middle of the village.

Inside, we found Nicolai, already cozied up for the night and ready to play host. He welcomed us with a full 360-degree tour (which, to be fair, took about 12 seconds), then shifted his sleeping bag and made room for the rest of us.

We set up our beds on the floor, elbows practically touching, giggling at the situation. A public restroom nearby became our water source, device charging station, and gathering spot. We stood around swapping stories while waiting for our phones to charge, laughing at how this day ended.After walking over 23 miles, all I wanted to do was take off my boots and pass out. And that’s exactly what I did — in a random little bakery turned pilgrim crash pad. 

🥾 Pilgrim Tip: When You’re Tired, Keep Going — The Camino Has a Plan

Sometimes, a change in plans turns into an unforgettable story. Trust the trail. What looks like an inconvenience might just be the highlight of your day. And always carry a sleeping bag… just in case your next gîte is an old oven room!