Day 16.
A Birthday Among Oaks and Stone Walls
Cahors to Lascabanes
August 29, 2024 | 16 miles / 25.75 km
Gîte: Le Clos de Gamel (€ Tree House) ♥
🎉 Happy 50th to me! 😊
A Milestone Morning
I woke at 5:00 AM, my heart full. It’s my 50th birthday. What an extraordinary way to celebrate on the Camino, in the middle of France, with sore feet, a grateful heart, and a journey under my soles. Before anything else, I took a moment to thank God for these 50 years. Then I opened a birthday card from Cheryl. Simple, heartfelt, and deeply touching. That small act set the tone for the day.
Breakfast was modest-tea and a slice of bread, but it was enough. We left the gîte quietly while the city still slept. Cahors was hushed and golden in the early morning light. And right away, the Camino gave me its version of a birthday greeting: a climb. Of course.
A Climb and a View to Remember
Crossing the Pont Valentré again, we began the ascent out of Cahors. It’s steep. No sugarcoating it. The path winds sharply up through trees and hillside, the rooftops of the city falling away below. But once we reached the top, I was given a gift no one could wrap; perfect view over Cahors. The Lot River curled like a ribbon, the old bridge stood tall and timeless in the distance, and the city looked like something out of a storybook. I stood there for a while. That moment was a birthday present I didn’t know I needed.
Pain, Silence, and an Unexpected Song
After the climb, the landscape shifted again. The trail stretched into open plateaus, past crumbling stone walls and through stretches of silent oak forest. This is the Causse de Limogne, and walking here feels like stepping into a forgotten world. Peaceful, dry, and ancient.
But something was off. My left hip socket started aching more than usual. Pain that had crept in yesterday but now had grown sharper. Every step became slow and deliberate. I dropped behind the others, walking mostly alone for hours. It was the slowest I’ve walked on the Camino, and I’ll be honest; it was hard. I just wanted to stop. But then something beautiful happened.
Six of my Camino friends appeared on the trail and started singing “Happy Birthday” to me. Right there in the middle of nowhere. I didn’t expect it, and it hit me right in the heart. Their voices, their kindness… I’ll never forget it.
Village Stops and a Vintage Ride
We stopped at a café tucked into a grocery store, one of those no-frills pilgrim gems. We stocked up on snacks, refilled our bottles, and kept going. We passed through sleepy villages like Labastide-Marnhac and Hospitalet. Nothing grand, just glimpses of real life under wide skies.
By the time we reached Lascabanes, I was thoroughly worn out but quietly content. The village is small but full of pilgrim energy. We were staying 3 kilometers off trail at Le Clos de Gamel. The owner, David, had told us to call him when we arrived. We waited outside La P’tite Pause with Melissa from Australia, who was also headed to the same gîte.
Then came another gift: David showed up in the coolest old Volkswagen. We all crammed in, laughing, and rode together up the hill like kids on a summer adventure.
The Gift of the Treehouse
And there it was. My treehouse. A cozy little nest among the trees, gifted to me for the night by a Camino angel. I was speechless, excited and so happy. Of all the ways I could have turned 50, this was more than I could have dreamed. Quiet, magical, and full of love.
Dinner was incredible. David and Christine served homemade red wine, sweet and smooth. I had a special dessert with a sparkle. Literally. A candle just for me. I felt so seen, so celebrated.
I climbed up to my treehouse a little before 11:00 PM. My legs hurt, my hip was throbbing, but my heart was full. This day, the walk, the pain, the view, the song, the wine, the treehouse. It was unforgettable.
Fifty on the Camino.
What a gift. What a day.
Some days on the Camino are about the distance. Some are about the people. And then there are days like this. Quiet, painful, deeply personal, and perfect in their own way.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
If your gîte is located off-trail (like Le Clos de Gamel), don’t hesitate to call ahead and arrange a pickup. It can save you precious energy, especially on long or difficult days. And if you’re celebrating something special on the Camino, mention it! You never know what beautiful surprises might be waiting for you.
Day 17.
Rain, Figs, and a Tower on a Hill
Lascabanes to Lauzerte
August 30, 2024 | 15.40 miles / 24.78 km
Gîte: Gîte d’étape L’Abeille Lulu (€24 B&B) ♥
Goodbye, Treehouse
It rained with loud thunderstorms last night. I was relieved the skies cleared by morning. Packing up was bittersweet. Leaving the cozy treehouse felt like saying goodbye to a little dream. Breakfast was simple but delicious: yogurt and cereal, bread with homemade jam, and fresh coffee. David and Christine sent us off warmly. Before we left, David insisted we stop by a fig tree just outside the property. “Sweetest figs in the region,” he said. He wasn’t wrong. We lingered there for a few minutes, savoring the fruit and the morning.
The Sweetest Figs
Fueled by figs and farewells, we hit the trail. The path out of Lascabanes was soft and welcoming, winding through open farmland and patches of oak woodland. We passed a few scattered farmhouses, cows grazing calmly, their bells ringing gently in the breeze. The trail was quiet, and the morning air still held a touch of coolness. It was peaceful walking, almost meditative.
Through Quiet Fields and Curious Cows
By late morning, we reached Montcuq, a charming hilltop village with a proud 12th-century tower. The climb into town was short but steep. A little challenge for my aching heart. The town square was full of life, with pilgrims and locals mingling in the sun. We stopped for a snack and a break. There was a cheerful, relaxed energy in the air that made it hard to leave. I also visited Saint-Priva Cathedral just across from the café. It was serene and beautiful, and I took some great photos inside.
Montcuq and Its Tower
After Montcuq, we had another 9 miles ahead to Lauzerte. The trail opened wide into wide fields and dirt roads that curved through the countryside. The sun grew stronger, and the road stretched long, but something about that rhythm. Step after step, felt good. About an hour in, I chose to walk alone. I really needed this time alone on the trail- just me, and the steady rhythm of my boots on dirt and gravel. I needed that solitude, that space to just be. The crunch of gravel underfoot, my thoughts, and my own breath. These were the only sounds I needed.
A Long Walk Alone
The last climb into Lauzerte surprised me. It wasn’t long, but it was steep, and after a day on your feet, it made you earn your arrival. But what a reward! Lauzerte is breathtaking. A white-stone medieval village perched on a hill, with a broad central square and panoramic views of the surrounding valleys. It’s easily one of the most beautiful towns I’ve seen on the Camino so far.
Lauzerte, All in White
My first stop was the Office of Tourism to get my credential stamped and catch some WiFi. Then I spent over an hour exploring the square and the surrounding streets. I admired the buildings, wandered down cobblestone lanes, and soaked in the layered history. Eventually, I made my way to my gîte. Gîte L’Abeille Lulu. It’s a little outside the square. Not the nicest I’ve stayed in, but it will do.
A Simple Night, a Full Heart
Check-in was slow, but I finally got to shower, do some laundry, and rest. I napped for a bit before journaling. I skipped dinner. I was too tired to eat. Apparently, instructions for breakfast were given while I was asleep, but thankfully Jean filled me in. I plan to leave early tomorrow. Today felt long but deeply satisfying. One of those Camino days that tests you just enough and rewards you in quiet, beautiful ways.
🥾Pilgrim Tip:
Take your break in Montcuq. You’ll appreciate both the view and the vibe. And if you see a fig tree, don’t pass it up.
Day 18.
Fields, Fruit, and Romanesque Beauty
Lauzerte to Moissac
August 31, 2024 | 18.30 miles / 29.45 km
Gîte: Chambre d’Hôtes La Maison Lydia (€68 B&B) ♥
Morning Calls and a Late Start
I woke up at 5:00 AM, quietly got myself ready, and sat down to a simple breakfast: cereal with chocolate bits, yogurt, and bread, which I packed up for later; plus a strong cup of coffee. Just as I was heading out, my daughter called. We ended up video chatting for nearly an hour. It was so worth the late departure. I finally left around 7:10 AM, the sky already beginning to warm above Lauzerte’s rooftops.
Through the Quercy Blanc
Leaving the medieval charm of Lauzerte behind, I entered the gentle, rolling countryside of the Quercy Blanc. The trail wove through golden wheat fields, radiant sunflowers, and rows of vineyards. Asphalt and gravel paths turned into quiet country lanes, occasionally giving way to shaded woodlands that brought welcome relief from the sun. Here and there, elegant pigeonniers, those iconic dovecotes, rose like sculptures in the fields, adding a whisper of old nobility to the landscape.
Cantaloupe Kindness
A cantaloupe farm appeared like magic along the path, with a rustic table offering cool, juicy fruit for just €1. There was a knife and a coin jar, and one perfect cantaloupe later, I sat in the sun sharing slices with a fellow pilgrim who had been walking all the way from Germany. One of those little Camino moments that feels both unexpected and exactly right.
Durfort-Lacapelette and a Tuna Picnic
Around midday, I passed through Durfort-Lacapelette, a sleepy village where the bell tower echoed softly over cobbled streets. I found a quiet grassy patch at the edge of an apple farm and finally enjoyed the bread I’d packed with a tin of tuna in tomato sauce. Simple, salty, and just what I needed. Sometimes the Camino cuisine hits differently.
Descent into Moissac
The final stretch descended gently toward Moissac. The Tarn River shimmered from a distance, and I spotted the Abbey of Saint-Pierre’s bell tower rising above the rooftops. Crossing the Canal de Garonne, I felt the satisfying ache of a long day’s walk and the thrill of reaching another important stop on the pilgrimage.
Reunions and Romanesque Wonders
Moissac greeted me with energy and beauty. At the Office of Tourism, I ran into Jean—he had taken the bus from Lauzerte and was full of stories. We explored the town together, and the highlight was absolutely the Abbey of Saint-Pierre. Its 12th-century Romanesque carvings and peaceful cloister, now a UNESCO World Heritage site, offered space to reflect and rest. The architecture, the art, the history. It all sank in slowly as we moved through the space.
A Perfect Ending
Our gîte, La Maison Lydia, was just a short walk from the Abbey. I had one of the best showers of the Camino, did my laundry, and then had dinner out on the patio. Beatrice, our host, had a full tea selection, and I was thrilled to find my favorite-Earl Grey. I ended the day with a steaming cup sweetened with honey, tucked into bed early, and fell asleep with gratitude in my heart.
🥾Pilgrim Tip:
Bring a coin for the cantaloupe stand. You’ll be glad you did. And don’t miss the cloister at the Abbey of Saint-Pierre. It’s one of the Camino’s hidden gems for quiet reflection.
Day 19.
Rain, Rivers, and a Village in the Clouds
Moissac to Auvillar
September 1, 2024 | 15.15 miles / 24.38 km
Gîte: The Presbytery – Stopover Gite (€18 Bed) ♥
Morning Calls and Canal Advice
I slept so deeply last night that my 5:30 AM alarm actually startled me. After a long, luxurious shower, I dressed and headed to breakfast. Just before, I had a phone call with my son. These little moments of connection mean the world. Beatrice, our thoughtful hostess at La Maison Lydia, warned us that the mountain route was unsafe due to the heavy rains and suggested we take the canal trail along the Garonne River instead. We said our goodbyes and left Moissac under a quiet, wet sky.
Rain Along the Canal
We walked out into steady rain. The canal route was flat, peaceful, and flanked by the river on one side and calm canal waters on the other. It was beautiful, despite the weather. At one point, the rain came down so hard we took shelter beneath a massive bridge, laughing as we wrung out our jackets. Eventually the rain eased, and we followed the GR65 into open countryside. Fields of sorghum and wheat, with old farmhouses dotting the landscape. The ground was muddy, and we slid more than once, but the walk had a quiet, meditative rhythm to it.
Climbing to Auvillar
We reached the village of Malause by midday and began the climb to Auvillar. It’s a gentle but persistent ascent, and by the time I caught my first glimpse of Auvillar’s red roofs, I was both tired and elated. The village, perched on a rocky hill above the Garonne, looked like something out of a storybook. The view from the top was breathtaking. Rolling hills and river valleys stretching out below in every direction.
Fairytale Charms and Hidden Pilgrims
We stopped at the Office of Tourism, got our stamps, and learned that the municipal gîte had plenty of space. One of the staff members even walked us there and gave us a little tour. From the moment we entered Auvillar, I was enchanted. Tiny pilgrim figurines dangled from streetlamps, and the main square, surrounded by timber-framed arcades, felt like it hadn’t changed in centuries. The round grain market at the center of the square was unlike anything I’d seen before. Auvillar definitely earns its place as one of France’s most beautiful villages.
Rest, Wandering, and a Vending Machine Feast
After showering and doing my laundry, I took a glorious 90-minute nap. I woke up just in time to explore more of the village. Auvillar invites you to slow down, to linger. I wandered the cobbled streets and watched the light shift across the old stone walls. Later, I met up with Lisa, Curry, and Jean for dinner. We waited over an hour at a local restaurant before discovering the overwhelmed waiter was also the cook. In classic Camino fashion, we pivoted, straight to a vending machine. Believe it or not, the dinner it delivered was surprisingly good!
🥾Pilgrim Tip:
In rainy weather, opt for the canal route from Moissac to Auvillar. It’s safer and still stunning. And don’t rush through Auvillar. This little village deserves your time.
Day 20.
Of Pain, Sunflowers, and Quiet Grace
Auvillar to Castet-Arrouy
September 2, 2024 | 15.82 miles / 25.46 km
Gîte: Gîte Communal (€17 Bed) ♥
Hopeful Start, Honest Struggle
The day began with promise. We left our gîte just after 7:00 AM as Auvillar yawned into a new day. A quick stop at the village’s only bakery meant coffee and perfectly crisp croissants. Camino fuel at its finest. We picked up sandwiches for later, descended the hill, and slipped quietly back into the countryside. It was peaceful. No traffic, no noise, just the soft crunch of boots and a handful of pilgrims moving forward under a cool morning sky.
Into the Gers: New Region, Familiar Rhythm
Today we officially left Le Lot and entered Le Gers, a region of endless farmland and gently rolling terrain. Fields of sunflowers and sorghum stretched to the horizon, golden and waving under the breeze. We paused briefly in Saint-Antoine-de-Pont-d’Arratz, then again in Flamarens for a bathroom and coffee break. But it was the honesty stand before Miradoux that hit me emotionally. Someone had left out a thermos of coffee and slices of citrus cake for passing pilgrims. No one was there, just a small sign and a tin for coins. I took a slice, poured myself some coffee, and sat for a moment in deep gratitude. The kindness of strangers never stops humbling me on this journey.
A Tough Climb, an Aching Hip
By the time we reached Miradoux, my left hip was screaming. The pain had crept in slowly but was undeniable by late morning. We asked about a bus; no luck. So, I pressed on, one slow step at a time for the last four miles. In Miradoux, we also visited the village’s gothic church, currently under restoration by a renowned French architect. I stood there, aching and moved, both by the architecture and by how something broken can be slowly, lovingly made whole again.
Castet-Arrouy: A Quiet Landing
The road into Castet-Arrouy rolled gently through the landscape. I stopped a few times just to look back, to breathe, to rest, to appreciate the quiet beauty of farmland and sky. The village itself is small, but the sight of it brought such relief. Our gîte communal was easy to find, tucked behind a cluster of stone houses, its garden blooming with lavender. It wasn’t fancy, but it was enough. After the usual pilgrim routine, shower, laundry, feet up. I wanted to explore the village, but my hip made that impossible. Thankfully, our hostess offered me some numbing cream, and I gratefully accepted.
No Stamp, But Something Deeper
I didn’t get a stamp for my credential today. But not every Camino day is marked with something tangible. Some days are simply about making it through. Today was hard. Physically and emotionally, but it offered space, quiet, and the kind of stillness where grace can sneak in. I may not know why I’m meant to be here, but I know that I am.
🥾Pilgrim Tip:
Don’t underestimate what a small act of kindness. A cup of coffee, a jar of cream can mean on the Camino. And if you’re hurting, slow down. The road will still be there tomorrow.
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