Day 9
August 19, 2023
Azofra to Grañon
Albergue Refuge Paroissial – Donativo
15.12 miles / 24.33 km
I was up at 4:30A and we started walking at 4:50A. It was a steady climb up to Cirueña. Patrice and I walked in the dark until first light came through. We were in Cirueña at 6:42AM, just in time to see the sunrise. It was beautiful. He was the ‘DJ’ today and he played a lot of old American gospel songs. It was a downhill trek to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Once there, we realized it was a big, beautiful city. Turns out, the engineer from the 11th century that built most of the Camino infrastructure resided here.
Santo Domingo was a very interesting man who dedicated himself to prayer and God. He spent his life servicing the Camino and pilgrims. The history of Santo Domingo is worth reading into. We followed the way-markers to Plaza del Santo where the bell tower from the 12th century is located. I noticed a couple of things as we walked around the city-rooster and hen statues and bundles of dry red pepper bundles on balconies. There is interesting history on the Santo Domingo’s birds dating back to the 12th century.
We took in the sights and took lots of pictures. We went looking for a supermarket and I bought Gazpacho. On our way back to the trail, we stopped by this small Pasteleria and I had my first cup of tea since leaving UK. It was delicious. We also had some pastries. From there, we went and found the way-markers out of Santo Domingo de la Calzada and continued walking to Grañon. We walked parallel to the main road for the most part. A few miles before entering Grañon, we walked through our first fields of sunflowers.
The fields stretched beyond the horizon in full bloom facing the sun. What a sight. We took lots of pictures and couldn’t get enough of them 😊 Once in the city, we found our way to Iglesia de San Juan Bautista an old church from the 16th century which also functions as an albergue. This albergue was very interesting. They have no beds. Just mattresses on the floor of the attic and the tower. We were very well received. The hospitaleros were so kind and offered us a meal as soon as we entered. It was so unexpected and heartwarming.
After our meal and chatting, we were led to the tower room where we picked a mattress and found a spot on the floor. One of the hospitaleros didn’t like how I placed my mattress on the floor and didn’t know a nice way to tell me so. That put a dump on my day. I made my ‘beds’, went and showered, laundry and slept. Went to see the town after.
Made it back in time to prepare a communal dinner. The atmosphere was amazing. I saw familiar faces. We cooked and ate together. After dinner, there was a beautiful ceremony for the pilgrims. They shared with us the history of the place and the reason they don’t have a stamp in Grañon. What a beautiful spiritual experience. When mass was over, I went back to my mattress, journaled and slept.
Day 10
August 20, 2023
Grañon to Villafranca Montes de Oca
Albergue RP San Anton Abad – €15
14.72 miles / 23.69 km
Patrice and I left after 5AM. It felt great walking in such cool weather. We walked in silence for a few hours. We passed a huge sign letting us know that we have left La Rioja and officially entering Castilla y León. The terrain was almost flat up until Belorado. From there it was a steady incline to Villafranca Montes de Oca. When daylight broke, it was beautiful to see how we were surrounded by mountains, the beautiful Oca mountains. We walked through miles of sunflower fields.
Today, the Camino provided us with Hazelnuts. I didn’t know what a Hazelnut tree looked like until Patrice pointed it out to me. We gathered a few Hazelnuts. The Camino also provided us with apples, pears and another sweet fruit whose name I don’t know.
After walking for over seven hours, we crossed the Oca River and entered the small village of Villafranca Montes de Oca. We made our way to Hospital de la Reina built in 1377 to care for peregrinos. In 2009, it was restored and renamed Hospital de Peregrinos San Antón Abad. It has since continued to serve pilgrims. The building has a luxury hotel and an albergue.
We checked in and we fell in love with the place. They have nice showers with shower gel. I was able to do my laundry properly and I rested peacefully in their comfortable beds with real sheets and pillowcase. I was up in time to take part in a free yoga class for pilgrims.
Surprisingly enough, Patrice and I were the only ones that showed up for the yoga class. I enjoyed the yoga session. It did the body good, especially my legs. We toured the hotel grounds then walked outside the hotel grounds. Not much to see. Back at the albergue, I spoke to my family. Brought my laundry in, journaled and went to bed. I ate so much fruits and nuts, I skipped the expensive dinner that was offered at the restaurant.
Day 11
August 21, 2023
Villafranca Montes de Oca to Cardeńuela Riopico
Albergue Refuge Paroissial Via Minera – €8
15.10 miles / 24.3 km
I was up at 4am. We got ready and left the Albergue at 4:35AM. We followed the way-markers on the paved road and onto the trail leading us up the hill and into the forest. Once upon a time, robbers use to hide in these forests to steal from pilgrims. Glad times have changed.
By daybreak, we were descending into pine and fern forest. It was at this point that we were accosted by flies-pesky, relentless, annoying flies that flew right in our faces. The more you swatted them, the harder they came at you. They got in my eyes, my nose and not in my mouth. They could have if I had carried on talking. Goodness me… we walked by the Monumento de los Caídos, a civil war monument marking a mass grave of those murdered here by Franco’s fascists.
Made it to San Juan de Ortega, a small town named after Santo Domingo de la Calzada’s student. The named student joined him in building roads, bridges, churches and hospices to serve pilgrims on the Camino. This was his calling. We walked over to Iglesia de San Nicolás de Barí, an old Romanesque church built in honor of Nicolás, a saint who saved San Juan’s life.
Next to the church is an albergue were we ran into familiar faces which was nice. We spent a few minutes chitchatting then continued walking. The moment we entered the pine forest, the pesky flies were right there waiting for us. They were there with us through the forest and into the open terrain. All the way to Agés! So irritating. Agés is a very small hamlet. We spent a few minutes there. Not much to see or do.
Kept on walking to Atapuerca. The first thing we saw from a distance was a huge sketch billboard of an ancient Atapuercan who lived here over a million years ago. We took a right turn at the billboard to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Archaeological Site of Atapuerca.
The caves at the site contain rich fossils record of the earliest human beings in Europe. We were really looking forward to this, unfortunately the place was closed when we got there. Bummer! We backtracked to the way markers and walked through the small hamlet of Atapuerca that has been around since 750.
We took a steep ascent over the Sierra de Atapuerca at the ridge of Alto de Matagrande, past the large spiral labyrinth and the large cross set in a cairn-the Alto Cruz de Matagrande. From this point, we could see Burgos in the distance. We took a small descent then incline into the village of Cardeñuela Riopico.
We found an albergue. Got clean, did laundry then slept. After our siesta, we went and found a bar that was selling a nice vegetable pizza. We only ate half of it and took the rest back with us for breakfast. It was a big pizza. We ran into familiar faces at the bar. Went sightseeing then back to the albergue. Did my journaling then bed. It was a fun beautiful evening.
Day 12
August 22, 2023
Cardeńuela Riopico to Burgos
Albergue Refuge Municipal Los Cubos – €10
17.53 miles / 28.21 km
We left Cardeńuela Riopico at 6:15AM. The walk to Burgos was 90% on asphalt and I did not like that at all. Too hard on your heels and knees. We walked mostly in silence and listened to music most of the way. It was beautiful being able to watch the sun rise in a swirl of beautiful colors.
The trail got busy with pilgrims after sunrise. From a distance, we started to see the medieval walls of Burgos. By 8:30AM, we were in the heart of Burgos, the second largest city on the Camino, after Pamplona. Burgos is so active with a lot going on around us. We walked by the Human Evolution Museum which is one of the world’s most important museums on human evolution. It was closed when we were passing by. Not far from the museum was the statue of El Cid. He played an important role in 11th century Spain.
I later found out El Cid and his wife are buried in the Burgos cathedral. We headed to our first choice albergue and once we got there, we were told pilgrims couldn’t leave before 6AM. That wasn’t going to work for me. I have to leave at the latest, 5AM just because the days are getting hotter and I don’t like walking in sweltering heat. We left and found Albergue Refuge Municipal Los Cubos. It was still closed when we arrived with a lot of pilgrims waiting outside. Thankfully, they had 150 beds-enough for everyone. I love the albergue! It’s very clean with welcoming volunteers. Another thing to love about this albergue was the location-literally steps from the cathedral.
We left our bags and went sightseeing and to eat. We found a small restaurant that was serving the traditional Morcilla Burgalesa, a pork blood sausage made without meat but onions, rice, lard, pork blood and spices stuffed in pig intestines. Ok taste. Don’t think I’ll be eating it again, or anytime soon. We walked over to the Medieval Town Center surrounded by medieval walls. The place has vibrant eateries, shops and cafés ready to suck in the tourists.
We went and saw the amazing Catedral de Santa Maria, this 13th century UNESCO World Heritage Site with its elaborate architectural beauty that was built on a site of an old Romanesque cathedral. This gothic cathedral took 22 years to build. You will find all the information about this magnificent church by visiting their website. The cathedral is so beautiful and glad to have had the opportunity to see its 15 chapels, the Golden Staircase, Chapel of the High Constable to name a few. The design of the main dome over the altar is spectacular. The interior is enormous with a great wealth of sculptures, carvings and paintings.
The beautiful stained-glass windows and domed ceilings alone are worth the visit. The 13th-14th-century Cloister is an impressive intricate double arcaded space. The corridors contain many tombs and statues. The audio guide was very helpful with giving detailed information of the cathedral. So much interesting history. I took lots of pictures until battery died. By then, I was so tired and ready to go to bed. Patrice’s Camino ends today. It was nice walking with him this far. It’s interesting how on the Camino, you make friends you most likely will never see again, and yet share experiences that will keep you connected for life.
Day 13
August 23, 2023
Burgos to Hontanas
Albergue Refuge Paroissial Meson El Puntido – €10
19.73 miles / 31.75 km
Today was one of those days where I walked almost 20 miles and had to stop myself from walking. The doors were open at 5AM and a whole bunch of us left the albergue at the same time. We followed the way makers through a passage out of Burgos and into the countryside. A few miles before entering Tardajos, I was walking by myself. I did a lot of reflecting, listened to music, and Americanah, an audio book by Chimamanda Ngozi.
I walked through a lot of flat terrain and sunflower fields. I also passed through some small woods of Holm oak and conifers. Hard to believe that once upon a time, this whole region was one large forest. By noon, I was in the outskirts of Hontanas. The first thing you see upon entering Hontanas is a small chapel of Ermita de Santa Brigida. The chapel is dedicated to a Swedish Saint Brigitta who made a three-year pilgrimage to Compostela with her husband from 1341 to 1344. Her role in the Camino history is worth reading into.
I made my way to Iglesia de la Immaculada Concepción, a quiet and peaceful 14th century church. I spent a good hour in the church then went to Mesón El Puntido, a small bar and restaurant for something to eat. I meant to go to San Anton but it was too hot to walk an extra 3 miles. After finding out there was an albergue upstairs, I paid for a bed, had a dry ham sandwich with a glass of water and later a can of Fanta. Cleaned up, did my daily laundry, slept. Woke up in time for mass. Happy to see familiar faces from Grañon. Spoke to my Jesenia, journaled then called it a night.
Day 14
August 24, 2023
Hontanas to Frómista
Albergue Refuge Paroissial Luz de Fromista – €12
21.87 miles / 35 km
I left Hontanas at 3:55AM. It was very nice and breezy. I love walking early in the morning. A few miles in, I was in San Atón and walked under San Atón Monastery’s half crumbles arches. It is part of the San Atón Monastery ruins. The monastery once serviced pilgrims as a hospital. Walking through the ruins, you get the sense of care and kindness that was once offered here.
There was a steady climb leading up to Castrojeriz, up to the high ridge of Alto de Mostelares-2,953 feet, the highest point of the Meseta, and the last plains of the Burgos Region. Great views of the fields below from here. This was a one crazy high plateau, and the descent was pretty steep.
The trail got a little busy as I started running into people that were joining the trail from Castrojeriz. I ran out of water and couldn’t wait to get to Boadilla del Camino to fill up my water bottle. Walking past the Canal del Pisuerga was interesting. This endless canal supplies enough water for these fields. As I approached the center of Boadilla del Camino, I saw this old looking intricate cross covered in scallop shells.
As I got closer, a woman standing a few feet away told me not to get any closer because in the past, people found guilty of terrible crimes were hanged here. This cross is from the 15th century. I don’t know if this was built/carved for that purpose alone. I did get close enough to admire the artistry and beauty and couldn’t help but think of the people that met their demise here.
My favorite part of today’s walk was leaving Boadilla del Camino and following the way-markers to where the Camino runs parallel to the Canal de Castilla. The canal was built in the 17th century for irrigation purposes. It was a nice, beautiful walk, through crop fields and pasture. By the way, I saw the best sunrise in Rio Pisuerga. By 10:30AM, I was in Frómista.
I crossed the Canal de Castilla right next to this rusty elaborate gate that controls the water flow. Apparently, this is a hot tourist spot. There were two buses and lots of tourists taking pictures. I made my way to the albergue. On my way to my first choice albergue, I ran into Monika seated on a bench outside the albergue waiting for it to open. I was so happy to see her. She informed me that my first choice albergue was closed to pilgrims. So, I joined her on the bench to wait until open time which was 1:30PM.
Thankfully, the hospitalero let us leave our bags inside while we went sightseeing. We crossed Plaza de Tuy to Iglesia de San Pedro, a church from the 15th century. The construction of this gothic church begun in the 15th century and continued over different centuries. The construction concluded in the Renaissance period. The incomplete facade of the second body of the building that was not finished belongs to the renaissance style.
Inside, the central altarpiece is dedicated to Saint Peter and Saint Paul particularly stands out. The Museum of Sacred Art is in one of the side chapels. That is where we had our passports stamped. They have a collection of pictorial panels in the Spanish-Flemish style dating from the 15th century, with different scenes from the life, passion and death of Jesus Christ. We spent a good amount of time in the church. We then left and found a supermarket which wasn’t far from the albergue. By the time we finished our shopping at the supermarket, it was check-in time at the albergue. It was a full albergue. Did the usual and after my nap, I took a walk in and around village center. Ran into familiar faces which was nice to see. I was in bed by 9PM.
Day 15
August 25, 2023
Frómista to Calzadila de la Cueza
Refuge Municipal Albergue de Peregrinos – €10
23.56 miles / 37.92 km
Left Frómista at 3:44AM. The first part of the walk was in the city on asphalt for a good two hours. Did not like that. Later, the trail joined a gravel trail that led me through some more fields. Couldn’t see much even with my flashlight. I know sprinklers were on because I could hear the engines running and I got sprayed a couple of times with water.
At the end of those fields, the trail led me into a very wooded area. I heard all sort of sounds and at one point, I thought something was going to jump out at me. By 6:50AM, I was walking through Villalcázar de Sirga, a small interesting village with hillside bodegas where local families store their wine, cheese and meats. I walked past Iglesia de Santa María la Blanca, a 12th century church known for the Cantigas de Santa María. Sunrise was at 7:35AM. Thank God!
The sunrise was beautiful. I kept turning around to take pictures every few minutes and each time there were different hues of orange around the sun. The sunflower heads were patiently waiting for the sun to “feed” them. It was beautiful. I also took pictures of the flat terrain ahead of me. Today was day two of walking in the masete and it is not as bad as people say it is. Well, maybe 😊
The walk from Carrión de los Condes to Calzadila de la Cueza was long and quiet. It was just open land with no structures, a few scattered trees in the distance, and no one else on the trail. Just me and the sound of my footsteps on the gravel ‘senda’. The sun was right there, getting hotter by the minute. I walked for more than 8 hours straight, and by 12PM, I was in Calzadila de la Cueza.
I went to the albergue which was the first thing I saw when I reached the hilltop. Checked in, shower, laundry, nap. When I woke up, Sebastian, a very nice guy with horrible blisters on his feet had just arrived. I hope his blisters heal so he can finish his Camino. I get up to go outside to find something to eat and look out the window. Who do I see?! Monika! I go to the small ‘supermarket’ across the albergue to get something to eat, and I realized I grabbed the wrong purse that didn’t have money it.
I run back to my bed, grabbed the money and on my way back to the ‘supermarket’ I ran into Monika. We started talking and talking and before you know it, the ‘supermarket’ was closed! The only restaurant in the village was closed too. SMH. I was starving! Monika was kind enough to share her bag of nachos. So, yeah, I had less than half a bag of nachos for dinner today. Monika is staying at the albergue next to mine. It was nice seeing her again and catching up.
Back at my albergue, I got to know Sebastian a little more. Someone else had shown up. There was only the three of us in the albergue. I switched beds. I moved to the far end of the second room and prepped myself for another early morning tomorrow.
Day 16
August 26, 2023
Calzadila de la Cueza to Calzada del Cota
Albergue Refuge Municipal San Roque – €5
17.91 miles / 28.82 km
I left early this morning as usual-5:30AM. It was a bit cold this morning. I wore my jacket and kept it on for the first 2.5 hours. It was a bit cloudy but still beautiful morning to walk. Took nice pictures of the sunrise behind the clouds.
Continued the walk through the long stretch on the Meseta. The scenery was amazing. I passed through Terradillos de los Templarios, a small town that was once a controlled by the military order of the Temple that was founded in 118 in Jerusalem. Their objective was to safeguard pilgrims who made the Camino de Santiago, which was not always safe.
It is also known as a place where the Templar Knights hid the goose that laid the golden eggs. I officially left the Burgos region and entered the province of Palencia. I also officially reached my halfway point in Sahagún. I followed the way-markers through a couple more small towns, all the way to a medieval double arched bridge over Rio Valderaduey River. The bridge leads you to the 12th century Ermita de la Virgen del Puente which was once a pilgrim hospice. There is a nice, shaded area to the left after the crossing and I was so happy to see it. I needed to rest my shoulders and drink some water.
I left my bag on the bench and took a walk around the hermitage. It was closed. The hermitage is known to house the image of the Virgin of the Bridge. The image is taken out in procession through the surrounding countryside every March 25. After my rest, I walked a little over two miles into the town of Sahagún, a large busy town. I followed the city signs to the ‘Oficina de Turismo’ where I picked up the map of Sahagún and a stamp in my passport.
Having a local map is always a good idea. I walked back to Iglesia de San Juan but it was closed. Went to the Plaza Mayor and the ‘Arco de San Benito’ which is located next to the ruins of the old Monastery of San Benito. It dates back to 1662. I left the town and made my way up-hill, off the way-marker to ‘Santuario Virgen de la Peregrina’ an old church founded in 1257 and once a Pilgrim’s Sanctuary, this old church sits on a hill, which is the highest point of the town. This is also where I came to get my ‘Halfway Camino Certificate’. Apparently, at his point, I have gone over 217miles/350 KM and to commemorate my achievement, I received my ‘Halfway Camino Certificate’.
After getting my certificate, I was able to leave my bag in a cabby and visit La Peregrina’s church and monastic grounds. When I walked in the church, I got very emotional. The interior décor, the carved and painted plaster on the walls, the statues of Jesus depicted in different positions, in agony and the somber soothing Gregorian chants playing where a reminder to me; that he died for my sins. I was there for over an hour and so glad I did that.
I left the church and joined the way-markers to the medieval route through the ‘Tierra de Campos’. The quiet walk through the gentle treeless slopes were much needed after my experience at the ‘Santuario Virgen de la Peregrina’. By the time I was in Calzada del Coto, the sun was at solar noon and I was out of drinking water. I made my way to the only albergue in town, and it has no water. Seriously, no water. It was either stay here and hope water is restored soon or walk over 5 Miles/8 KM to the next town. I chose to stay. No way was I walking in this insane heat.
There are three of us stuck in this unfortunate situation. The other two were a nice older couple from Budapest. The hospitalera was very nice. He explained the water situation and was very apologetic. I checked in, changed into my flipflops and went food hunting. I found a very small supermercado and bought myself the usual boring lunch.
I took a walk around town and found a small hermitage dedicated to San Roque patron saint of the people also the protector against disease and disaster. Unfortunately, he is not here to protect us from this ‘water crisis’ that we are having. I went to a nearby bar and restaurant and used their WiFi. My “roommates” where there doing the same thing. Back at the waterless albergue, the hospitalera made me a nice cup of tea which I was very grateful for. If you know me, you know how much I love tea 😊
Day 17
August 27, 2023
Calzada del Cota to Mansilla de las Mulas
Albergue Gaia – €12
23.05 miles / 37.82 km
I left at 5:15AM. It was dark outside. I had my headlamp on and was enjoying my walk in silence when I started hearing dogs barking. The noise was getting louder and getting closer to me. By then, it’s 6:15AM and still dark. I keep walking when I suddenly hear this loud bark from behind me. I was startled of course. I grabbed a bunch of rocks and threw them at this despicable dog. It kept barking and before I knew it, I was surrounded by a pack of loud dogs.
They almost attacked me! About six of them. Short of throwing my phone at them to keep them away, I grabbed more stones and threw them in their direction. I bet you, they were descendants of Cerberus. In the crazy commotion of screaming, barking, stone throwing, I managed to get away unharmed and somehow got off trail and onto a wrong trail! I hated those dogs. When I looked at the map on my phone, I had two choices- go back and try to get past Cerberus’ cousins or make my own trail through these corn fields ahead of me. I did the latter.
This added unnecessary miles to my trip. Half way through the corn field, my “maps” stopped working. For once, I was thankful for the loud party that was going on in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. Walking through those corn fields, I followed the sound of the music to lead me to civilization. Anyways, that was an experience I wouldn’t wish on anyone.
By 7:30AM, I was enjoying the sunrise and thanking God. It was still a good walk despite the unfortunate event with the dogs. I was going a bit slower than usual because my left leg started to hurt. I walked through a lot of corn fields and vegetable fields.
I crossed several irrigation channels. I stopped in Reliegos to rest, some sightseeing and picture taking. There is a lot of history here, from the Romans that settled here in 10th century to the crash landing of a meteorite fragment. I made it to Mansilla de Las Mulas. The medieval wall of Mansilla de las Mulas stands out as you enter the small city. It’s construction dates to the 12th century.
I had a hard time finding an affordable albergue. I finally found one after walking around for over an hour. Very nice and clean with colorful decor. I went to the gas station for dinner. Met a lot of wonderful people today. I am too tired and in pain tonight.
Day 18
August 28, 2023
Mansilla de las Mulas to León
Albergue Bénédictines Carvajal – €8
13.20 miles / 21.24 km
I was up early (3:20AM) but didn’t leave until after 7:50AM. Went to the kitchen to make a cup of tea and started talking with two pilgrims. Lost track of time. I left with Sarah after taking a bunch of pictures. We walked together into the next town for about an hour. We parted ways at the first open cafe. She stayed while I continued walking.
The trail was busy up until Puente Villarente when it got quiet. Most of pilgrims stayed for late breakfast at the café. I walked along vast fields of irrigated crops towards Leon. Entering León was a bit of a shock. I missed the Maseta the moment I started seeing the industrial activity. There was a welcome table for the pilgrims at the bridge that leads you into León. I am glad it was there. They gave me the city map and showed me how to get to my albergue.
Everyone at the welcome table was super nice. I made my way to the albergue while taking in the sights and taking pictures. I checked in… this was the longest check-in ever. I was so happy to see everyone, and we just talked as if we’ve known each other forever. The Bénédictine sisters were so nice. I left my bag and went sightseeing. León is the fourth largest city on the Camino.
The historic center is well preserved and worth the visit. The Pulchra Leonina (the ‘Sistine Chapel’ of Spanish architecture) was today’s highlight and a sight to marvel. This Gothic style cathedral was built more than 700 years ago. I visited the many historical buildings and sites. Went to the grocery store and grabbed lunch. Back at the albergue, I took a shower, ate and slept for five hours! When I woke up, it was almost time to go for vespers and pilgrims’ mass. I went and it was beautiful and moving. On our way out, they gave us personal messages. I must get mine translated. It’s in Spanish. Well, tomorrow is a 20 miles day 😅
Reflections
So far, my Camino and personal journey have been shaped by challenges, joys, and discoveries. An early encounter with aggressive dogs served as a stark reminder of the unpredictability of the Camino. Accidentally deviating through cornfields added a unique experience to my pilgrimage.
This encounter with aggressive dogs transformed into a metaphor for life’s unforeseen struggles, emphasizing the Camino’s parallels with unexpected detours. Navigating through cornfields became a lesson in courage, adaptability, and faith.
The stay at the Albergue Bénédictines Carvajal brought encounters with kindred spirits and the gracious hospitality of the Bénédictine sisters. The camaraderie formed during the longer-than-usual check-in reflected the genuine connections made on the pilgrimage.
The challenges of pesky flies and closed doors at Atapuerca became metaphors for life’s struggles, reminding me that the path to spiritual growth is rarely seamless. Burgos and León’s towering cathedrals emerged as a beacon, symbolizing enduring faith amid transient connections. The halfway point in Sahagún signified not only geographical progress but also a profound midpoint in my personal evolution.
While Patrice’s absence was felt, the transient nature of Camino friendships became apparent. Solitude, both physical and emotional, allowed for introspection and a deeper connection with the essence of my pilgrimage.
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