Day 12: Lugo to Ferreira
July 25, 2025 | 16.44 miles / 26.45 km
Albergue: Cruz Ferreira Hostel €15
Today began with a slow, quiet awakening. I was up at 5:30 AM to find the entire dormitory still deep in sleep. I packed my sleeping bag, stuffed everything into my backpack, and tip-toed downstairs to the kitchen. There, I found two other early-risers, and we shared a single cup in turns for our morning tea. This was new.
I left the albergue at 6:27 AM, my pace quicker than usual. Walking out of Lugo as the city slowly stirred was an indescribable feeling. The transition was immediate. The paved streets gave way to quiet country paths that wound through fragrant eucalyptus forests and past weathered stone houses. It was a day of peaceful solitude, with only a few pilgrims passing me. I immersed myself in the audiobook ‘My Sister, the Serial Killer’ by Oyinkan Braithwaite, an intriguing contrast to the serene landscape. After finishing it, I walked in silence, reflecting on how different life feels when it’s distilled to its essentials: walking, water, food, shelter.
In San Romao da Retorta, I stopped at the Xunta albergue to use their Wi-Fi and rest my feet for half an hour. Refreshed, I continued the final 3 miles to Ferreira, eventually catching up with Madoka. We arrived at the Cruz Ferreira Hostel together.
Check-in was smooth, and a shower was my first and most urgent priority. After the bliss of washing off the day’s dust, I made a classic pilgrim miscalculation: I bought an €8 sandwich from the hostel that turned out to be a profound disappointment. The worst sandwich on the Camino so far!
The evening was redeemed by the company of familiar faces and new friends, including a wonderful mother-daughter duo from Mexico and Thomas from France. After socializing, I retreated to my bunk to write this and surrender to sleep. Tomorrow is a shorter day, and for that, my body is grateful.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
In very small villages like Ferreira, your food options can be extremely limited. If an albergue is your only option for a meal, manage your expectations. When possible, buying snacks from a larger town like Lugo to carry with you is a safer bet for both your palate and your wallet.
Day 13: Ferreira to Boente
July 26, 2025 | 18.72 miles / 30.12 km
Albergue: Albergue Pension Boente (€16)
I set out at 5:41 AM into the dark, the air crisp and cold. For three hours, I was gifted with uninterrupted silence, a treasure on the Camino. The path wove through a landscape of moss-covered rocks and dense, whispering woodlands, making for a deeply contemplative walk.
The first significant climb of the day announced itself with a thick, wonderful scent of pine that filled the air. The ascent was gradual, and the reward at the top was immense: morning light filtering through the trees, revealing marvelous views over the Galician hills.
At the bottom of the descent, a rest area appeared, and there was Madoka! She had left at 4:00 AM but was slowed by the weight of her pack. After filling my bottle from the fountain, I carried on. A deep hunger and tiredness set in, with no café in sight until the welcome oasis of Villamor. The place was packed with pilgrims; I ordered a coffee and a slice of dry cake. It was okay, but the caffeine was the real prize.
Fueled, I walked with new energy, even stopping to forage a handful of sweet wild blackberries from a patch along the path. The walk led to a steady descent into Melide, a major milestone where the Primitivo officially merges with the much-busier French Way.
My original plan was to stop in Melide, but the crowds and energy were overwhelming. I decided to get my stamp, see the main church, and eat the famous Pulpo á feira (Galician octopus) at Pulpería Ezequiel, a necessary and delicious ritual before pressing on to Boente.
The 2.5-hour walk from Melide to Boente was a blur of crowded paths. I’ve walked this section before, but few sights sparked memory, which saddened me. The trail was loud, and I acutely missed the morning’s profound silence.
I finally arrived at my albergue, a nice, clean place with a pool (a cruel but beautiful temptation for tired legs). I’m rooming with many familiar faces, a comfort after the day’s anonymity. The evening routine was a solace: shower, laundry, a short sightseeing walk, and now, journaling. I finished just in time to bring my dry laundry in from the line.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Prepare for the Shift: The merger with the French Way in Melide is a cultural and auditory shock. The quiet, solitary Primitivo ends abruptly. Mentally prepare for crowded paths, larger groups, and a faster pace.
Day 14: Boente to Santa Irene
July 27, 2025 | 16.46 miles / 26.49 km
Albergue: Albergue de Santa Irene (€10)
Sleep was a fleeting visitor last night. After tossing and turning, I finally rose at 4:00 AM, deciding it was time to meet the day. I was on the path by 4:30 AM, walking in the quiet, dark solitude I’ve come to cherish. The trail out of Boente offered a rude awakening of its own. A steep, immediate ascent I was not prepared for in my drowsy state.
As the sun rose, so did the reality of this stage. The Camino Primitivo has now fully merged with the French Way, and the shift is palpable. The path is busier, filled with a symphony of languages and a constant, cheerful echo of “Buen Camino.” After the profound solitude of the earlier stages, this energy was initially jarring, but I slowly warmed to the communal hum of so many journeys converging.
The landscape remained a familiar comfort: cow farms, fragrant eucalyptus forests, and the distant crowing of roosters. I made surprisingly good time to Arzúa, pausing a few times to soak in the views and collect stamps. The stretch to Calzada felt long, and the first café I found there was a lifesaver. I enjoyed the best cup of tea and a slice of pizza for a mere €2.50. A true pilgrim’s bargain!
Further on, in Salceda, a plum tree offered its sweet fruit, and I gladly indulged, supplementing my snack with a few wild berries from the wayside.
I pushed on and reached Santa Irene at 12:25 PM. My albergue, which didn’t open until 1:00 PM, became a welcome excuse to simply stop. I took off my boots, rested my aching feet, and waited with a sense of deep, tired contentment. The check-in was seamless, and the hostess wonderfully friendly.
After claiming my bed, the rituals felt more significant: a shower, then the thorough emptying of my backpack to clean and reorganize everything. It felt like a necessary preparation, a literal lightening of the load before the big day.
A good dinner at the restaurant and some light socializing capped the day, but my mind was already turning forward. Tomorrow, I walk to Santiago.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Prepare for Arrival: Use this last night to organize your pack and your thoughts. The walk into Santiago is emotional and busy. Having your belongings in order and your credential ready for the final stamps lets you focus on the experience itself.
Day 15: The End of the Path, The Beginning of Everything
Santa Irene to Santiago de Compostela
July 28, 2025 | 20.36 miles / 32.76 km
Albergue: Albergue de San Lázaro (€10)
Today was the day. The culmination of every step taken since Oviedo. I was out the door a little after 6:20 AM, Madoka by my side. The albergue, right on the trail, made for an easy start in the dim, quiet morning, our headlamps cutting a small path forward.
We walked through hushed country roads and green fields, knowing significant climbs still lay ahead. The ascent out of the valley near San Paio de Villapanada was a final, physical test, but the views from the top were a stunning reward. There, I found myself reflecting not just on the climb, but on the entire journey. The symbolism of each step, the challenges overcome, the silence, and the solitude.
Not far from the summit, a café appeared. I stopped only for a stamp, but Madoka stayed to rest. I wasn’t ready to pause; a quiet momentum was carrying me forward. After O Pedrouzo, the trail transformed, becoming a river of pilgrims. Busy, loud, and vibrant. I found myself walking with a small group of women from Finland, sharing stories that reminded me how every Camino is a unique tapestry of experiences.
I collected stamps with a sense of joyful purpose, each one a milestone bringing me closer. The fatigue in my legs was tangible, but a deeper force propelled me. Then, from Monte de Gozo, the spires of the Cathedral finally appeared on the horizon. A deep, overwhelming sense of gratitude and peace washed over me. Memories of my first Camino flooded back, and I walked the final kilometers through the city streets in an emotional daze.
Entering the Praza do Obradoiro and seeing the Cathedral standing tall was breathtaking. The cathedral still stands tall in the heart of the city. It’s beautiful and historical significance once again taking my breath away. This wasn’t the end of my journey. I still have to get to the end of the world; but it was a monumental arrival.
The rest of the day was a pilgrimage within the pilgrimage: obtaining my Compostela, attending mass at the Church of San Francisco, receiving communion, and visiting the crypt of Saint James for a somber, private moment of thanks. A “confession and reflection” session with Edith provided beautiful closure and sound advice. Finally, I returned to the square to take triumphant pictures with Madoka, our shared journey commemorated in a flash.
The long walk back to the albergue was a quiet, tired procession. After a shower, a simple dinner, and these final journaled words, I feel a profound sense of completion. The Camino has ended, but its lessons in patience, endurance, and the joy of small moments will walk with me forever.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Your Journey Isn’t Over: Remember, Santiago is a major milestone, but your Camino continues until you decide it’s finished, whether that’s in Finisterre, Muxía, or back home. Let the significance of today settle in its own time.
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