Day 7: Pola de Allende to Berducedo
July 20, 2025 | 12.17 miles / 19.58 km
Albergue de Peregrinos de Berducedo €10
This morning was perfectly quiet until Madoka flicked on her headlamp and shone it straight in my eyes at 5:30 a.m. I laughed, rolled out of bed, and headed downstairs for the standard pilgrim breakfast: weak coffee and a slice of dry bread. A few minutes later Diego appeared and bless him, brewed a strong pot for our last chat together before we both set out a little after 6:00.
The moment I stepped outside, something hit me: this is one of the oldest routes of the Camino de Santiago. I felt a sudden wave of emotion, thinking of the countless pilgrims who have walked this same trail over the centuries. To be counted among them is humbling and profoundly special.
We spent about an hour on asphalt before the path turned to farmland and fields. Soon the rain began. Light at first, then heavier as the climb steepened. By the time I reached the higher altitude the rain was lashing sideways, the wind howling across the ridge. The ascent to the highest point was steady but challenging, a test of both legs and spirit.
Madoka had fallen far behind, leaving me alone with the sound of birds in the forest and the rhythmic tap of my “poles”. I moved through dense woodland, open fields, and rocky trails, catching occasional glimpses of the distant Cantabrian Mountains when the clouds lifted. Each view felt like a quiet blessing.
After a few hours of climbing, the trail began its long, gentle descent towards Berducedo. I arrived at 12:48 p.m., soaked but happy, and instantly charmed by the tiny village. A small supermarket/bar offered a simple supper-to-be: a can of stewed beans and pork. Perfect.
A few minutes’ walk brought me to the Albergue de Peregrinos, where I checked in, showered, and decided to skip laundry. Nothing would dry in this weather anyway. Later I sat with my journal, listening to the steady rain on the roof, grateful for the quiet and the day’s deep sense of history.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Some sections of this leg can be wet, windy, and exposed. Start early, pack a waterproof layer, and bring enough water for the long ascent. Trekking poles are invaluable on the rocky descent into Berducedo.
Day 8: Berducedo to Grandas de Salime
July 21, 2024 | 14.03 miles / 22.57 km
Albergue Grandas de Salime Municipal €10
Madoka was my alarm this morning. Loud enough that I was up by 5:20 a.m. I dressed and slipped into the kitchen for a cup of tea, but it barely touched my hunger. The morning began a bit off: we missed a couple of turns searching for the trail and lost more than ten minutes before finally finding the yellow arrows again.
The walk soon made up for the rocky start. I stopped in La Mesa for breakfast and proudly ordered in Spanish. My skills are improving! A strong coffee and an egg-and-cheese pastrami sandwich hit the spot before I set off once more. From the café, the path climbed gently uphill, quiet and peaceful, with stunning views over rolling green ridges.
A few hours later the drama began: the trail plunged downward in endless switchbacks, steep and rocky, at times barely wide enough for careful footing. Far below, the Arroyo de Grande River shimmered an incredible deep blue. I paused to take photos, trading cameras with another pilgrim couple so we could each capture the moment.
After what felt like forever, and with my knees definitely feeling it, I reached the massive dam. Its sheer size was breathtaking. Then came the final push: a short but tough climb up to Grandas de Salime, where I gratefully checked into the municipal albergue.
Shower, laundry, and a quick stroll through the charming stone streets followed. At the supermarket, I picked up dinner supplies: fresh bread, a can of sardines in tomato sauce, and a small jar of salami pâté. Later I attended a serene service of Gregorian chant at the local church. A perfect, meditative end to the day. Back at the albergue I wrote in my journal and drifted off, ready for whatever tomorrow brings.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip
The descent from La Mesa to the dam is long, steep, and rocky. Start early, use trekking poles, and take it easy. Your knees will thank you. Bring enough water, as there are few fountains until Grandas de Salime.
Day 9: Crossing the Threshold into Galicia
Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrada
July 22, 2025 | 17.90 miles / 28.80 km
Albergue: Ramon Rodriguez Pilgrims Hostel €10
I was up and out the door with Madoka by 6:00 AM, the morning air crisp and chilly. Today was the day I would leave Asturias behind, a stage famously known for its challenging, relentless ascent into a new world.
The climb began almost immediately, and about an hour in, I found my own rhythm, pulling ahead to enjoy stretches of peaceful silence, broken only by the tap of my walking stick. I passed through El Acebo and Puerto del Acebo, small hamlets that felt frozen in time.
Then, a wonderful Camino moment: I ran into Kim, whom I’d met back in Pola de Allande. She reminded me about the “photo stop” at the high point that I had told her about yesterday. I had forgotten completely! Thankfully, I was only a few steps from the junction. I decided to turn around and make the nerve-wracking trek along the highway to the summit of Puerto del Acebo (1,030 meters). Cars sped by, making it a harrowing detour, but the feeling of standing at the top was worth it.
From there, it was a gradual descent to the sacred borderline between Asturias and Galicia. It was incredible. The world seemed to shift instantly upon crossing; the landscape grew greener, softer, and quieter. I stopped at the sign to truly take it all in. This was more than a regional border; it was a milestone, a reminder that my journey was entering its final and most meaningful chapter. I took pictures, I cried, and I carried on. This little side quest had added 2 miles to my day, but it added a lifetime of meaning.
After a short break in Fonfria, I continued to Paradanova. Here, the final challenge awaited: the steep, heart-pounding ascent into A Fonsagrada. My knees felt every meter of it. The town is bigger than I imagined, and it was a joy to run into familiar faces on my way to the Ramon Rodriguez Albergue.
Check-in was smooth. After a shower and a well-earned nap, I met Madoka at 7:00 PM. We went to the supermarket, and I assembled a perfect pilgrim feast: an amazing salad with tuna, pasta, egg, and mushrooms, plus bread and a liter of gazpacho. It was delicious and exactly what I needed.
Now, I’m settled in bed after 9:20 PM. There’s just one small snag: there’s a cat in the albergue, and I’m allergic. Not too happy about that! I spent some time reading before finally drifting off to sleep, my body tired but my spirit soaring from a day I will never forget.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip: The Shell Flips! Pay close attention to the waymarks once you enter Galicia. The direction of the iconic scallop shells changes. You now follow the open, wider part of the shell, while the narrow point indicates the direction to Santiago. The yellow arrows remain your constant guide.
Day 10: A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo
July 23, 2025 | 16.30 miles / 26.23 km
Albergue: Xunta de Galicia Pilgrims Hostel in O Cadavo €10
Madoka and I, having slept in different albergues, met in the cool, pre-dawn air at 6:00 AM. I bee-lined it to the famous water fountain to fill my bottle. There’s just something about mountain fountain water that tastes infinitely better. We began our descent out of the quiet, sleeping town, our path momentarily illuminated by the flashing white light of a lone pilgrim ahead, an accidental guide in the dim light.
The trail quickly settled into a rolling, rhythmic pattern, carrying us through tunnels of oak and chestnut and across quiet farmlands where the scent of wet earth and eucalyptus hung in the air. This is the quiet strength of Galicia: a constant, gentle workout for the body and a balm for the soul.
A few hours in, La TaBerna was a beacon. I stopped for a much-needed coffee and a massive Spanish omelet. A lot of food for €6, and worth every cent. There, I ran into Daniel and Darius, a welcome moment of camaraderie.
Refueled, the journey continued through breathtaking green scenery. Then came the climb out of Montouto, the steepest stretch of the day. My legs burned, but at the top, a powerful reward: the Hospital de Montouto. Standing before the ruins of this 14th-century pilgrim hospital was humbling. I paused, imagining the centuries of weary travelers who sought refuge here, connecting my own small journey to the ancient tapestry of the Camino.
Oh! I also passed a brilliant donativo fruit stand, so well-stocked it was a testament to pilgrim trust and community. Sadly, I was still too full from breakfast to partake.
The final descent into O Cadavo felt longer than expected, a true test of will for my tired knees. When the town finally appeared in the valley below, it was a sight for sore eyes and sorer legs. Arriving at the albergue felt utterly victorious. Another day behind me, another piece of this beautiful, ancient trail beneath my boots.
O Cadavo is a small, humble, and comforting town. After checking into the functional Xunta albergue, I showered and did my laundry outside, making myself two mugs of tea and journaling while my clothes dried on the line.
Later, Madoka and I walked to the supermarket for my “Camino Special” supper: a can of mussels in tomato soup, bread, and veggie chips. Back at the albergue, a party mood had taken hold. Angelica had bought a bottle of whiskey for everyone to share. While I don’t think getting drunk is the best idea on the trail, the laughter was a happy sound. I simply slipped away to my bunk, earplugs in, and drifted off to sleep as the celebration continued.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip: Albergue Vibes: The Xunta albergues are simple, affordable, and functional. They are the classic Camino experience. Be prepared for the potential of a social, and sometimes noisy, atmosphere. Earplugs are non-negotiable!
History Pause: Don’t just walk past the Hospital de Montouto. Take five minutes to step closer. It’s an unmarked but profound monument that connects you directly to the Camino’s medieval past.
Day 11: O Cadavo to Lugo
July 24, 2025 | 19.02 miles / 30.60 km
Albergue: Xunta de Galicia Pilgrims Hostel in Lugo €10
I left O Cadavo at 4:06 AM, wrapped in a darkness so complete and a quiet so profound it felt sacred. The cold air was a shock, but I loved it. With only the beam of my iPhone flashlight to guide me, I merged with the Camino for three solid hours in total solitude.
That walk in the dark became a moving meditation. I prayed, I thanked God for this immense privilege, I asked for guidance, I cried, I laughed, and I reflected on a lifetime. It was a deep, personal cleansing I didn’t know I needed. I am so incredibly grateful to be walking the Primitivo.
As the world slowly lightened, the beautiful Galician landscapes unveiled themselves: endless green fields partitioned by low, ancient stone walls. The climbs were gentle, nothing brutal today. It took me two hours to reach Castro Verde, and by the time I arrived in Souto de Torres, the sun had finally broken through, warming my skin and my spirit.
I walked alone, savoring the peace, until just past Gondar when the first pilgrim of the day finally passed me. Those last few kilometers into Lugo were a mental battle. The terrain was easy, but the anticipation was agonizing. I was so tired and started to wonder, “Where is this city?” I was so focused I even missed the “100 KM to Santiago” marker!
But then, I saw it, the skyline of Lugo in the distance. A fresh wave of energy surged through me, and my legs suddenly felt lighter. Crossing through the monumental ancient Roman walls was surreal. I passed under beautiful old stone arches and was greeted by cobblestone streets that felt alive and deeply rooted in time. My pilgrim self felt tiny yet incredibly special, walking in the footsteps of millennia.
I arrived at the albergue at 12:25 PM, a little over eight hours of walking. Look at my time! I was third in line, and at 1:00 PM sharp, the doors opened. After quickly claiming my bed and charging my devices for ten minutes, I went out for sightseeing and stamp hunting.
I stopped at a grocery store on my way back, assembling my perfect pilgrim feast: a fresh salad bowl, bread, and a liter of gazpacho. Back at the albergue, I showered, ate my lunch/dinner downstairs, and simply rested. I’m utterly spent. I might venture out again for a warm tea, as it’s quite cold here. It’s wonderful to see so many familiar faces, a little Camino family forming. I am looking forward to a shorter day tomorrow.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Early Starts Have Magic: Walking in the dark isn’t for everyone, but if you feel safe and prepared, it offers a unique, peaceful solitude for deep reflection you won’t find any other time.
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