Back on the Camino: Starting the Camino Primitivo
Day 1.
July 14, 2025
Oviedo
El Salvador Pilgrims Hostel €24
Hello! I’m back on the Camino 😊
After months of planning and prayer, I’m finally in Oviedo, ready to begin my Camino Primitivo-the oldest and most rugged of all the Camino de Santiago routes. From this historic city the path climbs through the wild mountains of Asturias, then winds into the lush green hills of Galicia before joining the Camino Francés and finishing at the great cathedral in Santiago. From there, God willing, I’ll keep walking west to Fisterra and perhaps on to Muxía, where the sunset never disappoints.
I’m excited and a little nervous, feeling both anticipation and jet lag humming through me.
The journey here was long. I left Los Angeles yesterday at 5:30 p.m., flying French B Airlines to Paris; a stretch of hours that felt longer and far less comfortable than I’d hoped. After a brief two-hour layover and another cramped hop, I finally landed at Asturias Airport, where the green hills of northern Spain greeted me through the windows.
From the airport I caught a €9 bus to the city center and then a €6.52 taxi to my albergue for the night. Check-in was simple and warm; the staff friendly, his smile a gentle reminder that the Camino’s hospitality begins even before the first step. I’ve been given a small room with two bunk beds and a sink. Luxuriously private for a pilgrim’s first night.
Hunger nudged me soon after I dropped my backpack, but the nearby restaurants and supermarket were closed. Dinner tonight is the handful of mixed nuts I carried from home. It feels fitting somehow: a quiet meal of gratitude rather than a feast, the perfect pause before tomorrow’s beginning.
Thank You, Lord, for bringing me here safely, for the strength to walk again, and for the gift of this third Camino. As I lay down to rest, I whisper the same prayer I’ll carry on the trail tomorrow: guide my steps, soften my heart, and meet me in the miles ahead.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
If you land in Oviedo after typical Spanish dinner hours (many kitchens close around 9 p.m.), keep a small stash of trail snacks in your bag like nuts, dried fruit, or an energy bar. It’s a lifesaver when supermarkets and cafés have already shut their doors.
Day 2: Oviedo to Paladin
July 15, 2025 | 13.8 miles / 22.19 km
Albergue: Villa Palatina (€20 B&B)
The first true day on the trail. What a feeling to slip into the Camino rhythm again. I woke up at 6:20 a.m. after a solid night’s sleep. I packed my belongings in the predawn hush.. By 7:20 a.m. I was out the door, the early light still soft over Oviedo.
I walked first to the official starting point, the Cathedral of San Salvador. The great doors were closed, but I stopped to marvel at the architectural styles, from Pre-Romanesque to Baroque. I whispered a prayer of thanks. Then I followed the yellow arrows and stone shells out of the city.
The Primitivo wastes no time introducing itself. After the urban stretch came the steady climbs and knee-testing descents this route is famous for. My body protested. The familiar ache of muscles adjusting to a new cadence, but I kept a steady pace. I’d hoped for 15 miles today, yet 13.8 felt just right for a first stage.
Along the way I met fellow pilgrims: Barak and Steve from Germany, Anna from Poland, and Madoka from Japan. We shared small conversations in many accents, the Camino weaving our stories together for a few bright hours.
Sometime mid-morning I found a perfect walking stick. A gift of the trail. Only to leave it behind at a quiet old church in La Bolguina. Tomorrow’s climb is steep, so I’m praying another stick finds me before then.
Lunch was simple and salty: a chicken pie and a cold Coke in the village of Grado, eaten on a stone bench while reading Noir by Christopher Moore. By mid-afternoon, I reached Villa Palatina, a friendly albergue nestled in the hills. The hosts were welcoming and courteous, making check-in a breeze. After a quick shower, I wandered to the small village church for a moment of quiet reflection before a long nap carried me gently into the evening.
Now it’s after midnight, and I’m journaling by the dim light of a bunk lamp, legs pleasantly tired, heart full.
Thank You, Lord, for strength today—for every climb, every descent, every smile along the way.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
The stretch from Oviedo to Paladín begins gently but soon introduces the steep, rolling terrain that defines the Primitivo. Start early to avoid the midday heat and give yourself time for the climbs. Water fountains are plentiful between Oviedo and Grado, but refill whenever you can, especially before leaving Grado, where the ascent toward San Juan de Villapañada begins. A sturdy walking stick (or trekking poles) will save your knees on the downhill sections. Keep it close so it doesn’t become a forgotten treasure at a wayside chapel.
Day 3: Paladin to Cornellana
July 16, 2025 | 11.5 miles / 18.5 km
Albergue: Roca Madre Pilgrim Hostel – Donativo
I was up at 5:20 AM but hit the snooze button. Madoka came and woke me up at 6:00AM. I got myself ready and we were both out of there at 6:40 AM.
This second day on the Primitivo tested my resolve and rewarded it with sheer beauty. We began around 50 m elevation and would climb to 402 m, a grueling ascent through shadowed tunnels of chestnut and oak. Within the first mile my whispered prayer for a walking stick was answered: a sturdy weathered branch leaned casually against a tree, as if left just for me.
The route was a relentless series of sube y baja-up and down-each climb revealing a more breathtaking vista than the last. I earned my sweat today, in full measure, but so was the silence, broken only by my breath and the rhythmic tapping of my new stick against the ancient stones.
Madoka and I walked much of the morning together, sometimes talking, often simply sharing the trail. Yesterday’s soreness had softened into a purposeful ache, the kind that tells you your body is remembering what it can do.
Late morning brought the medieval town of Salas, its 14th-century Torre de Valdés-Salas rising like a sentinel. I rewarded myself with a thick slice of local tarta de almendra (almond cake) at a small café, savoring its sweetness as a counterpoint to the climb.
The afternoon walk to Cornellana was shorter but no less beautiful, following the gentle flow of the Río Nonaya. The path was flatter, a welcome respite for my knees, leading through fields and past horreos (traditional Asturian grain stores) standing on stone stilts.
My destination, Roca Madre Pilgrim Hostel, lives up to its name; “Mother Rock.” Irene welcomed me with easy warmth. After claiming a bunk in the airy dorm, I showered, did my laundry, and settled in for a hearty vegetarian dinner. Around the communal table I met Daniel from California and Darius from Hungary; our conversation roamed from Camino stories to home and food. What a pleasant evening.
Now, as I journal beneath a soft lamplight, legs heavy and heart light, I give thanks for the day’s quiet mercies: the found walking stick, the strength for each climb, the peaceful rhythm of companionship and solitude.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Today’s stage packs its biggest climb in the first half. Start early while the air is cool and refill water at the fountain in Bodenaya or Salas. Trekking poles or a solid stick are a gift for both the steep ascents and the descents into Salas.
Day 4: Cornellana to La Perada
July 17, 2025 | 14.62 miles / 23.52 km
Albergue El Minero-La Pereda Donativo
The morning began in quiet darkness after a restless night. I woke several times and found it harder each time to drift back to sleep, so when my alarm finally rang at 5:55 a.m., I simply got up, dressed, and slipped out the door by 6:20.
Leaving Cornellana, the trail followed the Narcea River along narrow country lanes and soft forest trails. Mist clung to the hórreos, those elegant Asturian grain stores balanced on stone stilts. They dotted the green hillsides like sentinels of another century.
The climb toward Salas was steady rather than steep, but my body protested more than I’d hoped. My heart was beating much faster and with frequent palpitations. Fatigue set in early, and I found myself praying for strength as each gradual ascent gave way to another descent. Still, the landscape offered quiet encouragement: oak and chestnut woods.
Reaching Salas felt like a gift. The town makes a perfect midway pause: cafés for coffee, shops for supplies, and the 16th-century Valdés Castle rising above the square. After a brief rest, I pressed on for the final three rugged miles to La Pereda. A stretch of rural trail that demanded every ounce of energy I had left.
Six hours after setting out, I arrived at Albergue El Minero ready to collapse. Only five of us are staying here tonight, and the simplicity feels like luxury. Our host served a steaming pot of spaghetti with tea-my favorite comfort food and the quiet camaraderie around the table reminded me why pilgrims keep walking.
Thank You, Lord, for steady footing, for kind company, and for strength that appears just when I need it.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
The climb from Cornellana to Salas is gradual but continuous, and the final approach to La Pereda can feel longer than the map suggests. If you’re prone to sore knees, the gravel descent just before La Pereda can be slippery when wet; trekking poles help. Start early, carry plenty of water, and don’t rush the descents.
Day 5: La Pareda to El Espin
July 18, 2025 | 16.06 miles / 25.84 km
Albergue Casa Pascual Hostel Donativo
Wow! What a day! I walked for 7 hours 50 minutes non-stop and loved every minute of it.
I was up at 5:22 a.m., sipping a quick coffee for breakfast before heading out at 6:45. Madoka and I left at the same time, rain already falling, and it stayed with us all the way to Tineo. After Villaluz it started again, and a thick fog rolled in to complete the moody Asturian morning.
Past Tineo I found myself completely alone. Madoka, burdened by her heavy pack, fell behind, and soon it was just me, the mist, the winds, and the distant clung of cowbells. The solitude on this Camino is powerful, peaceful, almost meditative and I loved every bit of it.
At one point I passed a cow farm where six curious cows decided to walk alongside me for a while. I even let them listen to my music; they looked like they were enjoying it, which felt oddly magical.
I reached Albergue Casa Pascual Hostel at 2:30 p.m., just ahead of opening time, and waited until 3 O’clock to check-in. The hostess greeted me warmly. I was delighted to find no bunk beds today. Pure luxury after days of upper berths. After a long hot shower, I took a short nap.
Dinner was a simple feast: thick slices of fresh bread topped with chopped tomatoes, sea salt, and oregano; a steaming bowl of lentil soup with homemade croutons; and, for dessert, an ice-cream sandwich. Great company, an amazing hostess, and a heart a little fuller. What more could I ask for?
Physically, I felt strong. My feet and toes ached a little but held up well; my hips and shoulders were sore but manageable. I did realize, again, that I hadn’t drunk quite enough water-something to watch.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
The path from La Pereda to El Espín can be muddy and slippery in rain and fog. Waterproof footwear (and maybe a spare pair of socks) makes the long day much more comfortable.
Day 6: El Espin to Pola de Allande
July 19, 2025 | 9.78 miles / 15.73 km
Albergue Polagrino Donativo
Waking up in El Espín was pure magic. Sylvia, our gracious hostess, set the tone by playing La Belle Dame Sans Regrets by Chris Botti to rouse us. A gorgeous, jazzy start to the day. By 7:00 a.m. everyone was gathered around the table for a simple but filling breakfast, and a little after 8:00 a.m. Madoka and I stepped onto the trail.
The path left town with gentle ascents and descents at first, sprinkled with a fair share of rocky patches. Early on, Madoka found her rhythm and soon pulled ahead, leaving me to my own steady pace. From El Espín, the Camino meanders through deep forests, the morning light slipping in occasional bursts through the dense canopy. It was a clear, beautiful day.
After Bodenaya yesterday, I thought I’d had my fill of solitude but today was even quieter. For long stretches it was just me, the soft squelch of my boots on damp earth, and the distant clang of cowbells echoing from unseen pastures. The peacefulness is always welcomed.
A handful of pilgrims passed me, but otherwise the woods were hushed and serene. The kilometers slipped by almost unnoticed, and before I knew it, I was approaching Pola de Allande. Though the stage was shorter than yesterday’s marathon, I felt physically grounded and content when I arrived.
The Albergue Polagrino offered a warm welcome. After checking in and swapping boots for flip-flops, I explored the compact town—small enough to see in under an hour. I stopped at the tourist office for a stamp, then wandered into a clothing store for another. On the way back I unexpectedly bumped into Madoka, who had taken a wrong turn and ended up behind me despite her earlier lead.
Back at the albergue we discovered our room was locked, so we relaxed in the dining area with other pilgrims while waiting for a volunteer to return. The delay turned into a gift: new faces, easy conversation, and the simple joy of Camino camaraderie.
Supper at 8:00 p.m. was wonderfully vegetarian; couscous, fresh green vegetables, and red wine served with laughter and stories. Diego, one of the volunteers, proudly gave us a tour of his flourishing vegetable garden, clearly tended with love. I lingered long past my usual bedtime, finally turning in after 10:00 p.m., my heart full from the day’s quiet beauty and shared company.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
The trail between El Espín and Pola de Allande is mostly gentle but can be rocky in stretches. Good tread and trekking poles help on the uneven patches, and the deep forest canopy means cool shade. Carry a light layer for the early morning chill.
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