Day 6.
Fields of Cows, Forest Castles & Blackberries for Dinner
Rieutort-d’Aubrac to Les Cambrassats
August 19, 2024 | 17.67 miles / 28.44 km
Gîte: Chez Nadége et Eric/Camps d’Estalas (€20 B&B)
We left the Old Bakery just before 7:00 AM. To my surprise, I’d slept really well on that floor. I had a quiet chat with Nikolai, who was still tucked in and not in any rush to hit the trail. We said our goodbyes and stepped out into the cool morning air.
Before heading off, we spent a few minutes wandering through Rieutort-d’Aubrac, taking in the peaceful charm and snapping some photos. The views were stunning. That kind of quiet, unassuming beauty that lingers with you.
Beautiful Cows, Romanesque Churches & the Highest Point on the Camino
Not long after we entered Nasbinals, I started seeing cows. Beautiful cows. I know that sounds odd, but seriously, these cows were something else. The Aubrac breed is a real beauty with their soft caramel coats and dark eyes. We followed walled tracks across the Aubrac plateau, surrounded by rolling grasslands and, yes, more cows.
I stopped to visit the lovely 11th-century Romanesque church in Nasbinals before continuing toward the highest point of the Le Puy Camino, which sits at 1,370 meters (4,495 ft) above sea level.
I paused again in Aubrac, a hamlet founded in the 12th century by a Flemish knight who established a refuge for pilgrims. The history here is thick in the air. At this point, most pilgrims had spaced out along the trail. I was walking alone and loving it.
Castles, Language & a Descent into the Lot Valley
The forest trail led me to Belvezet, where I stopped to admire the ruins of a 13th-century castle. I read up on its history while snacking on some trail berries, and then pushed on.
Next came Saint-Chély d’Aubrac, an incredibly picturesque village that began my gradual descent into the Lot Valley. This is one of the officially recognized most beautiful villages in France, and it absolutely lives up to the title. There’s something so distinctive here, a medieval charm that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
Fun fact: the street names are written in both French and Occitan, a Romance language spoken in southern France. I love learning little cultural nuggets like that on the trail. It adds richness to every step.
Gîte Off the Grid
I reached Les Cambrassats a little before 7 PM and went straight to Gîte Chez Nadège et Eric / Camps d’Estalas. Strangely, this gîte wasn’t listed on any of the apps on my phone. I had two options:
Rent a camping spot for €5 (if I had my own tent… which I didn’t)
Or take a bed for €20.
After last night in the bakery, I was 100% going for the bed. A shower, clean clothes, and an actual mattress sounded like heaven.
There were only three pilgrims staying the night. I had a room for six to myself. Sheer luxury by Camino standards. I showered, did my laundry, and got to journaling.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip: Sometimes the Best Gîtes Aren’t in the Apps
If you’re walking the Le Puy route, keep your eyes and ears open. Not all great gîtes are online. Some, like this one, are tucked away treasures you’ll only hear about once you’re there. And after a long day, a €20 bed and kind hosts go a long way.
I didn’t even think about food. I’d eaten so many wild blackberries along the trail that I was full by the time I arrived. I crawled into bed soon after journaling, grateful once again for the simple joys of this pilgrimage. France is truly stunning, and I went to bed feeling peaceful and full of wonder.
Day 7.
Castles, Bridges, and a Church by Moonlight
Les Cambrassats to Verriéres
August 20, 2024 | 22 miles / 35.41 km
Gîte: Saint Martin Church (Verriéres)
This day is one for the books.
I left the gîte just after 6:00 AM. Breakfast was self-serve. Coffee, bread, and yogurt. Simple but enough to get me going. It wasn’t too dark outside, which made for a peaceful start to the day as I continued hiking through the stunning Lot region.
Climbing Above the Clouds
The ascents and descents didn’t disappoint. The Lot region really knows how to serve up some spectacular views. One of the highlights of the morning was reaching Castelnau-de-Mandailles. I looked out from the top and could see clouds floating below me, with mountains in the distance. Absolutely breathtaking.
Not long after, I crossed a striking bridge with a rusty metal frame decorated with shell-shaped cutouts. A beautiful nod to pilgrims on the Camino. On either side: lush forest, the sound of water below, and that quiet Camino stillness that makes you stop and breathe it all in.
Medieval Bridges & Unexpected Kindness in Espalion
I walked alone for nearly three hours before meeting two friendly ladies walking in the opposite direction. We chatted briefly before parting ways, and before I knew it, I had arrived in Espalion.
Espalion is stunning. The Pont-Vieux (Old Bridge) is an absolute gem, part of the World Heritage Sites of the Camino. The town’s historic buildings line the river, many of them with wooden balconies that hang over the water. I learnt that some of these used to be old tanneries, the kind of detail you don’t forget.
I made my way to the Office of Tourism, one of my favorite Camino stops in any town. If you ever want to dive deeper into a place, this is where you go. They usually have helpful printouts (sometimes in English!), a cool stamp for your pilgrim passport, and you can even leave your backpack there while you explore, which I gladly did.
Full Beds, Empty Promises, and the Final Push
I still had a couple of hours before the gîtes opened, so I asked the woman at the tourism office to help me find a bed. The more affordable gîtes were already full. The cheapest she found was €60. Way over my daily budget. She also mentioned a place called Les Camps, where beds were supposedly €16. A few other pilgrims overheard and decided to come along. We were all budget-conscious and not keen to sit around.
Well, spoiler alert: Les Camps was closed. Not just “temporarily”. It looked like it had been shut down for a long time. We were crushed. My feet were throbbing, and I could barely keep my eyes open. At this point, I’d been walking for nearly 16 hours, stopping for less than an hour total.
One of the pilgrims had phone data and found a church in Verriéres, just over a mile away. It was past 8:30 PM by the time we finally made it to Saint Martin Church, perched quietly above the village.
A Night in a Church
We climbed the steep steps in the dark, using headlamps to find our way. Inside the small, silent church, we each picked a corner and unrolled our sleeping bags. There wasn’t much chatting. We were all beyond exhausted.
I said my prayers and must’ve drifted off immediately. Well… almost. One of the pilgrims was afraid of the dark and wouldn’t turn off her headlamp, which turned out to be a mosquito magnet. I could hear them buzzing around my head, but managed to keep them out by cocooning myself inside my sleeping bag like a medieval burrito. It was a rough night, but at least I had shelter — and a story.
🥾 Pilgrim Lesson: Flexibility is Everything
Some days on the Camino, things don’t go as planned, and that’s okay. Between closed gîtes, sore feet, and sleeping in churches, this pilgrimage keeps teaching me to go with the flow, trust the journey, and laugh when things get weird.
I’ll never forget the stars above the church, the sound of whispers and zippers in the dark, and that wild feeling of falling asleep in a sacred space with a bunch of strangers who feel more like family every day.
Day 8.
Romance, Ruins & a Designer Gîte in Golinhac
Verriéres to Golinhac
August 21, 2024 | 11.16 miles / 17.96 km
Gîte: Gîte d’étape Saint Martin (€24 B&B)
After a rough night on the hard church floor, I was awake a little after 5:00 AM, ready to get moving. I packed up, whispered a prayer of thanks for the roof over our heads, and quietly slipped out. Anaïs was also up early, and we set off together, leaving the rest of the pilgrims waiting for the café to open.
It was a chilly start, but Sébrazac-Verriéres was glowing in the early light. Perched high on the hill, the village offered some breathtaking views as we descended.
Estaing: A Fairytale in the Morning Mist
By 8:00 AM, we reached Estaing, and oh my goodness. It felt like walking into a storybook. From a distance, you can see the fairytale-like castle with its delicate turrets, the quiet river tracing the village, and the elegant medieval bridge (a UNESCO World Heritage site) welcoming pilgrims across.
The whole town radiates old-world charm. The stone facades date back to the 16th century, and the atmosphere is nothing short of romantic. We stopped often for photos and just to soak it all in.
We also visited the Romanesque Church of Besséjouls, which holds the unique distinction of having an 11th-century chapel in the bell tower. There’s something about that place. So ancient and welcoming. It made us slow down and appreciate the history we were walking through.
Breakfast, Woods & River Paths
Just as hunger set in, we found a cozy little café that had just opened. Sitting down for a proper breakfast felt like a luxury. Afterwards, we hit the trail again, walking through quiet woods and rolling countryside along the Lot River. Tranquil and green, the kind of peaceful stretch that invites reflection.
Golinhac & A Gîte with Style
As you enter Golinhac, a beautiful stone cross greets you. A recent reproduction of a 15th-century monument. There’s no Office of Tourism here, but the local café was buzzing with pilgrims. It was so fun to run into familiar faces, catching up, sharing stories, laughing over the quirks of the trail. Anaïs reconnected with some pilgrims she clicked with and decided to continue walking with them. I was happy for her.
I had about an hour and a half to wait before check-in at my gîte, so I wandered over to visit Saint-Martin Church, which dates back to the 10th century. Sitting inside in silence was grounding. Sometimes the Camino gives you a pause exactly when you need it.
When I finally arrived at Gîte d’étape Saint Martin, I was genuinely impressed. It’s beautifully renovated. A former presbytery redesigned by Claude, an architect and the owner. You can feel the care and intention behind every detail. The place was spotless, welcoming, and full of character. I highly recommend checking out the pictures on their website. They don’t lie!
Gratitude & Quiet Moments
I shared a room with two lovely ladies who spoke a little English. With the help of Google Translate, we managed long, heartfelt chats that made the evening fly by. I took a long hot shower (glorious), did my laundry, and spent some time journaling on the balcony as the sun set.
Looking back on the day, my heart is full. Thank you, God, for getting me this far. On the Camino and in life. I am so grateful.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip: Don’t underestimate the “short days”
Even when you’re walking fewer miles, the Camino can surprise you with emotional depth, hidden beauty, and new connections. Stay open.
Day 9.
A Glimpse of Conques and the Climb to Noailhac
Golinhac to Noailhac
August 22, 2024 | 20.07 miles / 32.3 km
Gîte: Gîte d’étape Communal de Noailhac (€12.30 B&B)
I left Golinhac just before 8:00 AM, after a wonderful breakfast prepared by Claude, our kind and talented host at the gîte. He’s not only an architect but also a great cook. His warmth lingered with me as I stepped out into the morning. I stopped to take a photo of the large metal cross with the rising sun behind it. The light was just perfect.
I also wandered briefly through the village center and paused for a quiet moment in the church before beginning the day’s walk.
Meeting Gabrielle & the Magic of Le Soulie
Not long after I started walking, I met Gabrielle, a young pilgrim from Switzerland who had already been on the trail for over a month. He’s walking all the way to Finisterre, the “end of the world.” We walked together for a while, joined by another young woman, through the hamlet of Le Soulie. What a name-Le Soulie. As if it were crafted just for pilgrims seeking rest for tired soles and weary souls. It felt symbolic.
The route offered stunning views today. More rolling hills, shaded forest paths, and villages nestled into the curves of the land. There was quite a bit of asphalt walking too, but even that couldn’t dull the beauty surrounding us.
First Glimpse of Conques
Eventually, we saw Conques from afar. Way down in the valley, with its three-steepled church rising proudly above the trees. Just seeing it in the distance stirred something in me. I’d heard so much about this place from fellow pilgrims, and it felt sacred even before we arrived.
We reached Conques a little after 1:00 PM, and it immediately stole my heart. The cobbled lanes, timber-framed houses, and quiet hum of pilgrims exploring its medieval charm made it feel like time had paused.
Fun fact: The fictional town of Villeneuve in Beauty and the Beast was actually inspired by Conques. You can absolutely feel it.
A Sacred Stop at the Abbey
Conques has been a major pilgrimage site for centuries. The Abbey of Sainte-Foy houses the relics of Saint Foy, a young girl martyred at just 12 years old because of her faith. Generations of pilgrims have come to pay their respects here.
I stood in front of the church for a while, just taking it all in. Inside, it’s peaceful and full of history, like the walls have stories to tell if you stand quietly long enough.
No Room at the Inn
I really wanted to stay the night in Conques, but the town was fully booked. The woman at the Office of Tourism was incredibly kind and tried calling around, but nothing was available. So I made the tough decision to continue on to Noailhac, just under 3 miles away.
Leaving Conques, I crossed the medieval bridge over the Dourdou River and started the steep climb toward the Chapel of Saint Foy. It’s a small, simple chapel with a spring nearby. Local legend says the water there can cure tired eyes. I didn’t test the legend, but I did stand still for a moment, soaking in the stillness.
The climb felt endless after a full day’s walk, but I finally arrived in Noailhac after 6:00 PM.
Noailhac: Quiet and Simple
I visited the Church of Saint Jean Baptiste, then made my way to the gîte. The check-in was a bit clunky. I had to walk into the village center to pay, pick up a pillowcase and sheet, then walk all the way back to the gîte. My legs were not impressed. But I got my hot shower, did my laundry, and sat down to journal before my body gave out for the day.
A Long, Memorable Day
Today was one of those days that tests you, blesses you, and leaves a mark. Conques was absolutely worth the effort. I’m tired, yes—but deeply grateful.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
If you’re heading into a popular pilgrimage town like Conques, book your bed ahead. Especially in high season. And if you’re walking on, be prepared for a climb!
Day 10.
Wandering Off Trail and Finding My Way
Noailhac to Saint-Jean-Mirabel
August 23, 2024 | 25.48 miles / 41 km
Gîte: Maison Mirabel (€24 B&B)
I woke up at 6:00 AM, but it took me a while to get moving. My body was tired, and my heart wasn’t doing so great. I finally managed to get everything downstairs and left Noailhac around 7:30 AM. Just in time to catch the sunrise behind me. The soft morning light and quiet stillness made it hard to leave quickly, so I lingered a bit before climbing out of the village.
It was all uphill from the start, but the higher I went, the better the views. At the top, I turned to look back and was stopped in my tracks. What I saw looked more like a painting than a real place. I sat down for a moment, just soaking it in, reminding myself that this might be the first and last time I’d ever stand there. It was one of those Camino moments that ask you to stop and really see.
Through Villages and Forest Paths
I passed through Livinhac-le-Haut, where a beautiful bridge spans the Lot River. A perfect place for pictures. The town was lovely and felt like a breath of fresh air. From there, I entered the forests and lush green fields around Decazeville.
Decazeville is more urban and industrial compared to other towns on the trail. It was once a thriving coal mining town. I stopped to visit a small church tucked away there. The art on the walls was surprisingly striking, especially for such a quiet, unassuming space. I also found an old church in the forest, and even a pilgrim cabin hidden in the woods. A beautiful idea, but the mosquitoes had their own plans. I didn’t stay long.
After Decazeville, the trail climbs steeply again, passing through smaller hamlets. I think I spotted some old mining ruins off to the side, reminders of the town’s past.
Plans Change
I originally planned to stop for the night in Le Terly, but when I arrived, I found the gîte I had in mind was closed for the season. The only one open was charging €50, more than I have budgeted for this early in my Camino. So, I wandered a bit off the trail, hoping to find something cheaper in Saint-Félix, a tiny hamlet a few miles away. No luck. Both gîtes there were too expensive too.
My feet were sore and my right knee was protesting with every step, but I didn’t have much of a choice. I had to keep walking. I remembered seeing flyers earlier in the day advertising a gîte in Saint-Jean-Mirabel, so I pinned my hopes on that and pressed on.
The Longest Kilometer
By the time I reached Saint-Jean-Mirabel, I was running on empty. That last kilometer to the gîte felt like the longest one of the whole Camino so far. But I made it.
The gîte, Maison Mirabel, is still under construction. I was met by someone who escorted me to a separate building behind the main house, where I left my boots and bag. There was construction dust and equipment everywhere, but the upstairs room in the main house had a comfy bed, and that was all I needed. I took a hot shower, washed my clothes, and crawled into bed to rest for just a moment.
They told me to come down at 7:30 PM to pay for my bed, but I was so tired I fell asleep and didn’t wake up until after midnight; still holding my money in my hand.
A Day of Quiet Detours
Today was long, challenging, and full of detours, both physical and emotional. I followed my curiosity off the trail a few times, and while that added distance, it also added something less measurable: a sense of exploration, and freedom to follow where the Camino nudges you.
The terrain was hilly, but not as intense as the climb into Conques. Forest paths, small country roads, open farmland. It was all quieter today. I walked most of it alone, moving through rural hamlets and fields with only the sound of birds and my own footsteps for company.
This was a day for solitude. A day to wrestle with tiredness, budget limitations, and the question that always rises when plans change: What now? But it was also a day for grace. I meditated on John 21:20–25, about the quiet following and faithfulness, even when the path looks different than expected.
🥾 Pilgrim Tip:
Have a backup plan if you’re staying in smaller villages, especially if you’re walking late into the season. And trust your instincts. Sometimes those off-trail detours lead you exactly where you’re meant to be.
🕊️ Pilgrim Reflections: John 21:20–25
As I walked today, worn out, unsure where I’d sleep, aching with every step. I kept coming back to the final verses of John 21. It’s that quiet, poignant moment where Peter looks over at John and asks Jesus, “Lord, what about him?” And Jesus replies, “What is that to you? You must follow me.”
That line hit home.
On the Camino, it’s so easy to compare. Someone’s pack is lighter, someone else is faster, better rested, better funded. Some find beds in charming villages, while others, like me today, end up walking an extra ten miles just to find a place to sleep. And yet, what is that to you? You must follow me.
Jesus’s words reminded me that my path is mine. My detours, my delays, my sore feet and mosquito bites. They’re part of the journey I was given. Just like Peter, I’m being asked to follow; not someone else’s pace, not someone else’s route, but the way laid out just for me.
It’s easy to forget this when you’re exhausted. But tonight, lying in a half-finished gîte, grateful just to be off my feet, I’m reminded that the invitation is always the same: Follow me. No comparisons, no competition. Just faith, step by step.
Leave a Comment