Day 32
September 11, 2023
Santiago de Compostela to Negreira
Albergue Coton – €14
19.25 miles / 30.98 km
I was up early as usual, with two mosquito bites on my face 😠 Got ready, tagged my bag and took it downstairs for the transportation company. I left the Albergue at 7:20 AM and went to Santiago’s relics crypt. I was third in line. They opened at 8:30AM and a volunteer came and led us through a narrow passage, to stairs below leading down to the oldest part of the cathedral. There, in a small niche is Saint James’ crypt where his silver reliquary is kept.
This was a very moving emotional experience. It was a pensive and utterly quiet moment. I am still trying to comprehend what I felt in that moment. I sat out in the cloister just outside and after a while went looking for WiFi. I needed to connect to the internet to get the address of the cafe to meet up with my Camino family. It was too early to find a place open for their free WiFi.
I saw a young lady sitting on a bench and asked if I could use her hotspot and she let me 🙏🏽 I found the location and walked over to Churrería La Quinta Café and found Monika, Fred, and Fabio. A few minutes later, Al, Randy and Annabel joined us. It was a beautiful goodbye breakfast. We said our goodbyes after breakfast. We sung, we cried, we hugged, we took pictures and said our goodbyes. Monika, Fred and I walked back to Praza do Obradoiro and said our emotional goodbyes to Fred there.
The two of us then went to the Pilgrims office and got our “Black” passports for our Camiño dos Faros. We wasted precious time going out of the way to the University of Santiago Compostela for a stamp. When we got there, they told us, the university pilgrims’ office is back by the catedral. Sigh! From the university, we picked up the scalloped-shell way-markers mounted on concrete pillars. We crossed a small bridge then went through a small, wooded area towards Sarela de Abaixo. We stopped at the village of Sarela de Abaixo for a last glance at the distant towers of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral.
After a few minutes, we made our way through more forest, interspersed with a few small villages. A little over six miles in, we started our steep climb to Alto do Mar de Ovellas. We descended in a small quaint hamlet of Ponte Maceira known for its five-arched Roman era bridge from the 13th century and picturesque views. We spent a few minutes on the bridge then continued our walk through the forest, past farm and small villages. Today, the Camino provided us with lots of fruits – figs, peaches and juicy apples. By the time we got to Negreira, we were stuffed.
Thank you, Jesus, for the food. We also took lots of fun pictures. And talked a lot about everything. We arrived in Negreira after 2:30PM. It took us a while to find an albergue but we did. It’s a fairly new albergue. It was nice, clean and modern.
Check in took a while for reasons I cannot say. Once we checked in, I made the one-hour trip up-hill to pick up my bag that was delivered at an albergue at the end of town. I was so tired when I got back. I showered, did my laundry, journaled and slept for a long time. Thankfully I wasn’t hungry. Thank you, God, for bringing me here safely.
Day 33
September 12, 2023
Negreira to Olveiroa
Albergue de Olveiroa – €8
21.73 miles / 34.97 km
Monika and I were up and ready to start walking a little before 5AM. Soon after leaving Negreira, we started the long steady climb through the woods. At times it was a steep climb.
We walked through more corn fields and cow farms. The trail leveled a few miles before we reached Santa Mariña. The trail took us uphill for a good two miles as we left Santa Mariña then over four miles of steep descent to Ponte Olveira. We walked in the dark until sunrise – 8:10AM. We took pictures of the sunrise, pretty flowers, cows and the landscape. We had a great time walking. It was a fairly easy walk to Olveiroa from Ponte Olveira. Once we entered Olveiroa, we are officially in horreo country.
We started to notice an abundance of Galician stone granaries set on stilts. There is the Cruceiro, at the crossroads and a small gray granite village Iglesia de Santiago de Olveiroa. We found our partial self-check-in albergue. We picked up our ‘linens’, found and made my bed, showered, did my laundry, went and grabbed a huge dry bacon sandwich. Doused it with the tomato sauce from yesterday and enjoyed my Camino lunch. I took a two-hour nap then woke up in time for official “check-in”. The hospitalero arrived after 6PM. I made payment for my bed, went stamp hunting and sightseeing. Came back to the albergue and microwaved my corn. Monika and I planned for tomorrow’s trek then journaled before bedtime.
Day 34
September 13, 2023
Olveiroa to Dumbría (Estiman)
Albergue Xunta de Galicia – €8
9.87 miles / 15.79 km
Monika and I left the albergue after 6AM. It was still dark outside with a few people on the trail. We are not planning to walk a lot today. Part of the reason we shortened our walk was because my left ankle developed a painful bump on the top front side. It hurts to walk and feels numb to touch. I don’t remember hurting myself or twisting my leg.
I hope this short walk helps the bump go down. A few miles in our walk, we took our first detour uphill to find the Pedra do Brazal or Piedra Cabalgada, a miracle of natural balancing stone. The large stone sits on less than a square meter of another large stone in perfect balance creating this spectacular natural sculpture. The balancing act seems almost impossible, and it actually felt a bit perilous to approach.
I climbed the stone anyway 😊, touched the top stone, and then went around it a few times and wondered how this happened. It was magnificent and beautiful to see. The views were amazing and seeing the sun rise added to the wonderful experience. We did see a couple of longhorn cows walking up to the stones. Other than that, we were the only humans there. We had our ‘Photo Shoot’ took lots of pictures. We spent a good hour around the stones.
We left Piedra Cabalgada and made our second detour to the Vákner Sculpture. This is probably sixteen feet tall. Vákner is a mythological werewolf. Legend has it that Armenian bishop Martir encountered it when he came to Fisterra on pilgrimage in 1491. We had fun posing with Vákner.
In my excitement of seeing this massive unusual bronze sculptor, I forgot my improvised walking stick and I was not happy about that. With steady up-and-down walking, we followed the way-markers towards Muxía. We walked through rolling green country, open fields and under old oak and pine trees. Every now and then, we came across hamlets built from granite. The Camino continued to provide a lot of fresh fruits and chestnuts.
When we entered Dumbria, we went to the only bar/supermarket in town. We bought some food and snacks then went and found our albergue which we had passed earlier. This is by far the most beautiful albergue. It’s very big with a modern look. Has very comfortable leather seats with a very welcoming lounge area.
The kitchen is remarkable and the bathrooms squeaky clean. The dorm rooms are spacious with a small balcony. There are eight beds in each dorm room and at the time we checked in, there were only two of us in the room. To this day, I fail to understand why a grown man decided to wake me up from my nap to announce his arrival and decides to take the bed above my bed. Very rude and inconsiderate if you ask me.
He walked past two dorm rooms with two and three males in each room and decided to settle in our room with two females. After banging his poles on my bed and throwing his stuff around very loudly, I knew my nap was over. Monika was in her bed napping but didn’t hear the ruckus because she had earplugs. She woke up a few minutes after me.
We switched beds then went back to the supermarket. We picked some peaches and some grapes on our way to the store😊Back at the albergue, I called my family and planned my walk for tomorrow. I looked up the albergue online and found out that it was a gift to the Camino from native son Amancio Ortega, the founder of Zara. As a pilgrim staying here, I appreciate this gift. I will be walking alone tomorrow. Monika and I will meet in Muxía. I went and took a shower, laundry, journal then sleep.
Day 35
September 14, 2023
Dumbría (Estiman) to Muxía
Albergue Xunta de Galicia Muxía – €8
15.78 miles / 25.4 km
I woke up at 4AM and guess who was standing by his bed just staring at me… the grown man. I don’t know if he was going to or coming from the bathroom. He just stood there. I said good morning with a little wave- nothing. That was my cue to leave. I packed up, went to the kitchen and made a cup of tea then left a little after 5AM.
It was nice walking in silence for hours. Had a lot to think about and sort through in my mind. The hike up and down the trail wasn’t bad at all. At this point, I can tell how much stronger my body has become. A few hundred feet elevation gain is a lot easier than it was during the first couple of weeks. I actually look forward to the cardio workout during the inclines. My heart has definitely gotten stronger. I haven’t felt or noticed any heart palpitations in the last eight days which is a good thing. Leaving Dumbria was an easy walk through town. I stopped a lot to take in the sights and pictures.
I later joined the dirt trail into the quiet wilderness. Before long, I was in Trasufre, a small hamlet known for its healing fountain. A little over four miles later, I was in Moraime where I stopped to admire the 12th century Romanesque Iglesia San Julián de Moraime. The church sits on an ancient site of an early monastery built here for its prior sacred association among Celtic speakers. Nearby excavations showed that before the Benedictine monks settled in Moraime, pagan natives, Romans and Visigoths lived in this area. This little town carries a lot of interesting history.
There was a big apple tree with very juicy apples on my way out of Moraime. I was so excited when I first saw the ocean through the tree partings. The trail leading up to the high point where you see the full view of the ocean was steep and fun to climb. I made my way down to the beach where it was beautiful and relaxing.
I enjoyed putting my feet in the sand. I spent some time there before going to my albergue. I sat out and waited for the albergue to open. I got there at 12:25PM and they opened at 1PM. Thankfully, the WiFi certificate from Dumbria is valid here. I was able to log in and surf the internet while waiting for the albergue to open. Monika showed up a few minutes before open time. I was happy to see her.
We settled in our spaces, got our small bags and went sightseeing. Monika has been talking about swimming in the Atlantic Ocean for so long. Today was the day her dream came true 😄 We always have our own photo shoot when we are together and today was no different.
On our way to visit Iglesia de Santa María de Muxía, we saw that the office of tourism was open. Yay! We went in and the nice lady at the desk gave us our Muxia certificates and stamped our passports which was a good thing because we were told that the office didn’t open until 5:30PM. Now that that is out of the way, we went on to visit the 14th century Iglesia de Santa María de Muxía. It was closed but that didn’t stop us from walking around the church and learning about it.
The church is built into the side of the hill. Next to the church, we climb the steep stone stairway to the bell tower, we then took the path leading to Monte Corpiño, the highest point of the village and enjoyed the views. We then made our way to the ocean side and found the Piedra A Ferida, the largest sculpture in Galicia. This massive sculpture is a reminder of the oil spill that happened in 2002. The crack symbolizes the wound caused by that ecological disaster.
Not far from the sculpture is the Santuario da Virxe da Barca– Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Boat monument. Legend has it that Mary came to Saint James on this site, arriving in a stone boat guided by angles, to encourage him not to lose hope in spreading the gospel. This church was built in honor of this sacred site. If you stand on the edge of the church facing the ocean, you will see what locals claim are the stone sail, hull and rudder of the boat.
We went to the lighthouse then started our slow walk to the supermarket then back to the albergue. Not for long. Just to drop off our food and continue walking to the “beach” side of the island where Monika finally swam in the ocean. She was on cloud nine. I was happy for her. I took lots of pictures of her. We were at the beach for a while then we started yet another slow walk back to the Magic Stones to see the sunset.
We found ourselves a nice spot on the rocks and watched the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen. I’ve seen many sunrises on the Camino, and this was my first sunset. I loved every moment of it. Monika and I had so much fun. This is our last day together. Back at the albergue, I went and took a shower, packed up my stuff, and planned for tomorrow.
Day 36
September 15, 2023
Muxia to Faro de Finisterra
19.79 miles / 31.85 km
I was up at 2AM. I was ready in 10 minutes. I woke Monika up to say goodbye and it was an ugly crying goodbye on my side. I left the albergue and ambled on the seaside promenade all the while following the way-markers all the way to the sidewalk parallel to the main roadon the oceanside. It was so quiet except for the ocean waves crushing on the beach. Before long, I was in the dense hills. There was a steep climb up to Monte Facho de Lourido. I was more than happy to make the climb and sad at the same time knowing it is the last in these parts. I took my time walking those quiet six hours.
I didn’t see any one until Frixe. His name is Justin from Norway. He was walking to Muxía from Finisterre. We talked for a while. We were both happy to talk to a person after walking for hours without a human in sight. The Camiño dos Faros is so much quieter and less traveled trail that ends at the water’s edge. It’s not unusual to walk for miles without seeing another person.
The downside of walking very early in the morning is that the cafés, restaurants and bars are not open that early especially in these hamlets and small towns. I was so hungry and was hoping to eat something in Lires but nothing was open. I refilled my water bottle in Lires and kept walking. I still had an apple and some chestnuts in my backpack. I really enjoyed the hike despite my empty stomach.
The terrain was very dense in some areas with some steep hills and green valleys. There were a lot more climbs but nothing too hard to climb. The landscape and oceanside walk into Finisterre were beautiful. Walking into Finisterre was interesting. It is a fishing port and clearly a popular tourist destination considering the number of full tour buses in town.
I had to meander through the town while taking in the sights before making it to the main road which had its twists and turns along the coast with a steady incline to Faro de Finisterra. I stopped at the 12th-century Iglesia de Santa María das Areas. I spent a few minutes there. It was so quiet and peaceful inside.
A woman who is a volunteer there, sat behind me and put her hand on my shoulder and prayed for me. Her prayer was exactly what I needed in that moment. We spent a good half hour talking before I left the church. The dramatic ocean views getting to Faro de Finisterre were stunning. A bit further from the church, I stopped at the ‘Wind-Blown Pilgrim’ statue where I took my first glimpse of the Faro.
As I walked towards the lighthouse building, I finally saw the 0-kilometer marker by the hotel. As I approached the pillar, I became so emotional as it dawned on me that my arrival in Faro de Finisterra signifies the end of my 36-day journey from France, and across Spain. This is it. I felt immense sadness that it was really over – what had become a way of daily life. I dreaded this moment and yet here it was. I had a strange feeling of relief that I had made it despite the three heart attacks and five stents. I felt a heart full of gratitude for such an amazing journey. My emotions were raging high.
Beyond the pillar is the lighthouse and behind it are the steep rocky cliffs. I walked over to the bronze Pilgrim’s Boot-a small tribute to pilgrims, a point where the last step is taken before reaching the sea. I found a comfortable rock to sit on and watched the crashing waves against the rocks, contemplating the infinity of my journey as it has come to an end.
It was nice having a solitary moment and being very grateful and thankful. After spending a long time at the “end of the world”, I walked back to Finisterre and did some sightseeing. I also made it to the Office of Tourism one minute before closing and received my certificate. The lady at the office was nice enough to give me the bus schedule to Santiago. She also gave me walking directions to the bus stop. I took the 4:50PM back to Santiago. I went back to Praza do Obradoiro one last time. Tomorrow I will be flying back to Leeds, UK.
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