Day 19
August 29, 2023 (Happy Birthday)
León to Hospital de Órbigo
Albergue Refuge Parois Karl Leisner – €9
21.27 miles / 34.23 km
It’s my birthday! What an honor and truly a blessing to be spending my birthday on the Camino. I’m getting emotional just thinking about it. I left León at 6:27AM. It was so nice and quiet walking in the city at that time of the morning. I took lots of pictures on my way out. It was asphalting pretty much the whole way. Not good for my knees.
I ran into a young German lady in La Virgen del Camino. We walked together to Valverde de la Virgen. She stayed there and I continued walking the dirt path parallel to the highway. I also run into Gabriella just as I was entering San Martín del Camino. We started the Camino on the same day in Saint-Jean…, and she is a fast walker. She wants to finish the Camino in three weeks so she could go back to work.
We stopped at a Wild Blackberries bush and ate all the ripe ones 😊 An hour and a half later, we spotted Puente del Paso Honroso, the medieval cobblestoned 19 – arched bridge. This bridge was constructed in the 13th century and has had its share of destruction and rebuilding. It was amazing crossing this long historical bridge.
I stopped to watch the river flowing beneath it. There was a guy fly-fishing in the distance. The clear skies and beautiful landscape were just breathtaking. The bridge led us right in Hospital de Órbigo, a small medieval town. Gabriella went to her Albergue were she had a reservation and I stayed in the town center to enjoy its serene and peaceful atmosphere.
I did some sightseeing on my way to the Albergue. I made it to the Albergue, and it is nice. There is a beautiful garden, and the hostess is lovely. I went to the supermarket and bought some eggs, baguette and Gazpacho. The closest supermecardo was closed for the day, so I had to make a 30-minutes round trip to the bigger supermercado.
I am glad I did because they had Gazpacho! Back at the Albergue, showered and did my laundry. Went and cooked my eggs saved one which I ate raw. I really need good protein. I know I am not getting enough. So, half a litter of Gazpacho, one raw egg, three scrambled eggs and a slice of baguette-that was my birthday meal and I enjoyed it 😊 Went to take a nap. When I woke up, I spoke to my Jesenia and other well-wishers🥰
Day 20
August 30, 2023
Hospital de Órbigo to Astorga
Albergue Refuge Siervas de Maria – €7
11.47 miles / 18.46 km
I was up at 4 AM. I spoke to Luyando before getting ready to leave. I left the Albergue at 6:22AM after drinking my last half litter of Gazpacho. It was nice and cool. I didn’t see the sunrise because of the clouds. I did manage to take some nice pictures of the clouds. I followed the way-markers to the wide trail.
Walked through groves of trees. La Casa de los Dioses was very interesting. It is a small encampment with shelters of colorful blankets and bowls of food and fruits on a tree stump. I was a bit confused. I wanted a banana but didn’t see anyone to pay for it. I took pictures and was about to go in an open door when a pilgrim came out and told me to leave what I can in a jar and take what I want from the tree stump. I put some money in the jar and took a banana. That was the best banana I have ever had 😊
This place was created by David Vidal from Barcelona. He called this place La Casa de los Dioses because he wanted every pilgrim coming through to feel welcome, whether they believed in one God or many. I thank God for David’s work. Only God knows how much I needed that banana. On the outskirts of Astorga, I ran into a group of pilgrims. I found out they had started their Camino in Sevilla and had just joined the French way. I was confused, again, because I didn’t see any signs or markings and for a minute, it felt as if these people just appeared from thin air.
Today’s walk was short-about 4 hours. I arrived in Astorga, the beginning of Maragateria territory founded by the Romans in the 14th century. The Roman walls still surround this historical city. It was 10:25AM when I went and visited the Catedral de Santa María and Museo de Catedral which is housed inside the cathedral. This was built at the beginning from the 18th century. Not far is the Domus Roman Villa Ruins. There is an open shelter built over the remains which make it easy to walk around and look down at the ruins. Right next to the ruins is the Iglesia de San Francisco and not far from the church is The Plaza Mayor also known as the meeting place for the Astorgans.
It was busy and the many cafés around the plaza offered different choices of local food. I stopped for breakfast at one of them. I was soon joined by Evans and Sue, two pilgrims I last saw in Estelle. Crazy! We had breakfast together and they carried on walking while I stayed. It was nice seeing them again. From the café, you can see the façade of the Town Hall building with its intricate decorative architectural elements. I finished with my sightseeing in time to check in at the Albergue.
The Albergue has its own historical story to tell. It is three stories tall and stands where the thousand-year-old pilgrims’ hospital, San Feliz, once stood. It has these Romanesque and Gothic style beautiful windows. I cleaned up, did my laundry, cooked some rice which I ate with canned beef stewed in green beans and tomato sauce.
I took the top bed and went to sleep with my legs propped up against the wall. Went to the supermarket afterwards and bought pistachios and a bag of chips then went to The Jardín de La Sinagoga (the Garden of the Synagogue) a beautiful quiet garden that was once frequently visited by a thriving Jewish community. I sat here and enjoyed my snack while reflecting on my Camino. I feel good and my body feels great.
Day 21
August 31, 2023
Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
Albergue Refuge Gaucelmo – Donativo
13.51 miles / 21.74 km
I left the Albergue at 5:55AM. A few people were leaving when I was leaving. We all walked in silence for a while. By the time I reached Ermita de Ecce Homo, I was walking by myself. I had the big, bright, beautiful moon light up my trail. A minute or so after it went down, I saw this beautiful sunrise. It bought tears to my eyes. I don’t think this has ever happened to me. What a sight. I took lots of pictures, but I don’t think they do it justice.
This is the way up to the first foothills of the Leon Mountains. They were a beauty. It was a steady climb uphill with some down stretches before the climb up again, walked through oak trees and plantations past the ‘Roble del Peregrino’, then to Rabanal del Camino. By then, it was 10:40AM. Rabanal is a small Templar town with Maragato architecture of multicolored homes and a lot of stray cats. I took in the sights and made a few stops on my way to the centrally located Albergue.
I first went to Iglesia de la Asunción, a 12th century church built by the Knights Templar. The church is small and looks every bit as old as its 900 years. It is overseen by the active Benedictine Monasterio de San Salvador del Monte Irago. I went in for prayer, thanksgiving and reflection. I then went looking for a supermarket and found the tiniest supermercado I have ever seen.
I needed nail clippers so bad. I made my way back to the church and across it is my Albergue, a British Confraternity of Saint James’ Albergue. I was very well received. Everyone was so nice and welcoming. I checked in, made my bed, went and had the best hot shower ever since coming to Spain. I feel so good and clean 🧼
I washed my dirty clothes and took them in the backyard garden to dry. It’s a big backyard with lots of apple trees. Went to sleep until 4:50PM when I woke up in time for afternoon tea. It was so relaxing and just nice getting to know everyone while enjoying a nice cup of hot milk tea☕️ I met more interesting people who are volunteering at the Albergue. They are mostly from United Kingdom and Australia.
I was asked to read during vespers. I thought, why not. Went to a small restaurant and had a chicken sandwich. My first chicken sandwich on the Camino. I was back at the Albergue in time for service. It was a beautiful Latin service delivered entirely in Gregorian chant. I read my part in English. It was a beautiful service. Thank you, Lord, for this wonderful and amazing opportunity to gather in your name. Amen🙏🏽
Day 22
September 1, 2023
Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
Albergue Santa Marina – €10
16.24 miles / 26.14 km
Allow me to say this was my favorite day to walk the Camino. I left early as usual. It was still dark outside so, I put on my headlamp. I followed the way-markers towards Foncebadón. Walked besides stone walls for a while then entered what looked like a corridor into wild territory for a few miles.
I then found myself on a narrow dirt and stone trail that went up and over mountainous terrain towards the mountain top. It was at this point that I looked at my phone and learnt that I was in the thick of León’s mountains. I followed the Camino through the center of Foncebadón past the Soul Garden, where stones with positive messages are left among wild plants.
I walked along a pine forest and continued the steady climb up to the Cruz de Ferro. I made it to Monte Irago (4,938 feet/1,505 meters) the highest altitude on the French Camino from Roncesvalles. This is an ancient ritual site that is mentioned in the 12th century Codex Calixtinus. A sacred Oaktree trunk sits on the site. As history goes, in the 11th century, the hermit Gaucelmo set an iron cross, the Cruz de Ferro, on the Oaktree trunk, putting a Christian symbol on top of the older pagan one.
At this altitude, the nearest point to heaven that the Camino reaches, it’s a potent link between heaven and earth. With ancient roots that precede Christianity, the Cruz de Ferro is considered the most ancient monument of the Camino. This site may have been a crossroads veneration site for Iron Age Celts and then the Romans, each leaving a rock on this high point for their own gods. Since the time of the Romans, travelers, pilgrims and Galician who travelled to Castile for the work of harvesting the fields, have continued that practice.
The mound of stones below the cross is a testimony to how many people have come here and left a rock, traditionally brought from home to symbolize gratitude, letting go, forgiveness or leaving your burdens behind. Looking down at the stones and mementos left around the cross, I felt the grief, pain, heartbreak and sadness from pictures of family members, pictures of pets-dogs, cats, a horse, birds, and a guinea pig, a pair of baby boots, a rattle, jewelry, prayers written on some stones. I too left my stone and spent another moment in pensive silence before leaving.
I continued walking along the highway for a bit, then into Manjarín, an interesting small town that was once abandoned and restored in 1993 by Tomás Martinesz de Paz to serve the pilgrims and the Camino. More climbing towards El Acebo which means “Holly”. Great views of the small town below from the top. There was a fun dramatic decent into El Acebo. Today, I realized how strong I have physically become. My shoulders are strong, my arms are strong my legs are unbelievably strong. My heart, oh my heart, not a single hiccup, just beating to the Camino’s drum.
Another fun part came during the long stretch to Molinaseca. There was a narrow and rocky path downhill path through the forest. The trail went through narrow crags between high, dense rocks and trees. This was so invigorating, and I loved it 😊The stone walls and chestnut trees…I picked my first chestnuts here. Some of these chestnut trees are over a hundred years old. At one point, the trail was covered with chestnuts. At the edge of Molinaseca, I stopped at Iglesia de la Quinta Angustía. I spent a few minutes there then went on to cross the Puente de los Peregrinos, 12th century seven arched Romanesque pilgrim’s bridge. There is a lot to see from the middle of the bridge.
Molinaseca means ‘dry mill’. It’s known for especially it’s chestnuts. I did my sightseeing as I walked on the old cobblestone square on my way to the Albergue. The Monumento Peregrino stood out. It is made from granite and depicted as Sanit James, the original pilgrim to Compostela. It is placed in a beautiful triangular water fountain. I followed the way-markers to the edge of town where I found my Albergue, a nice warm and welcoming place. Built where a 10th century chapel and pilgrim hospice once stood.
I informed the hospitalero that I was leaving very early, and he was kind enough to show me the ‘one way out’ door and told me a little about the place. After nap, had a text message from Kim. She is heading to Ponferrada to catch a flight tomorrow. She stopped by to say hello and goodbye. Her Camino ends tomorrow. I loved everything about today. The views were amazing, the rugged, rough trail, was amazing, the beautiful terrain to the mountain top, the experience at the Iron Cross and most of all, the beautiful sunrise with the moonlight. This was the most rewarding day. I walked seven hours straight and it didn’t feel like it. Thank you, Lord.
Day 23
September 2, 2023
Molinaseca to Cacabelos
Albergue Refuge Municipal de Cacabelos – €6
14.79 miles / 23.8 km
Today’s weather forecast is for rain between 9AM and 3PM so I left the Albergue at 4AM to get to Cacabelos by 9AM. It was another beautiful morning to be walking. It was a long walk parallel to the main road with fruit trees to my right. The Camino provided lots of delicious apples and pears.
I was surprised to see how big and busy Ponferrada is. The way-markers took me through the suburbs and then to the historic Castillo de los Templarios, a massive castle with thick high walls and towers. I couldn’t help but think of the Templarios back in the 12th century crossing this very bridge. The Templars played a big role in protecting and serving the pilgrims. In 1178, Templars made Ponferrada a main stop on the Camino to protect and serve pilgrims and the road. In the 13th century, they built this massive castle that defines the iconic image of Templar Ponferrada. The castle was closed when I was walking through.
Went through the central pedestrian Plaza de l Encina. Saw the La Virgen de la Encina bronze sculpture that has historical significance regarding the legend of Virgen de la Encina. I followed the way-markers towards Pons Ferrada bridge after sightseeing. The bridge was commissioned for pilgrims in 1082. In 1178, it was reinforced with iron supports. It was then named Pons Ferrada/Iron gate which is how Ponferrada got its name. Interesting. Left Ponferrada and a little over two miles, I was in Columbrianos. It got cloudy as I was entering Camponaraya. I was afraid it was going to start raining before I got to Cacabelos. It cleared up a little as I was entering Cacabelos. I saw a beautiful double rainbow. So big and bright.
About an hour after entering this medieval town, it started raining. These are my first rains since starting the Camino. I stopped and dug out my poncho from my backpack, spent about two minutes (felt like 10 minutes) putting it. Walked for less than five minutes and just like that, it stopped raining. Stopped, spent five minutes (felt like 10 minutes) taking off the poncho, gently folding it and putting it back in my backpack. I hope I don’t have to do this again. By the way, the rains started a few minutes after 9AM. I found a café when I was sightseeing.
Had simple breakfast-cup of coffee (they had no tea) and two slices of toast bread with jam. After, I continued sightseeing and was done in time to check into the Albergue. It was a short walk to the edge of Cacabelos where I found my Albergue. I don’t feel safe here as I journal. Looks like this place is open to the public as well as pilgrims. I don’t understand why my room is at the end of this courtyard.
A group of people are in and out of the bathroom/shower rooms. The men are just hanging out in the showers. I did not shower today. A bunch of kids are just hanging out by the bathrooms smoking. No sense of privacy. No kitchen. They have a microwave and the few times I went there to use it; someone was using it. No WiFi even though the ad says they have it. They gave me a roommate and we are both very uncomfortable. I can’t wait to leave early tomorrow morning.
Day 24
September 3, 2023
Cacabelos to La Faba
Albergue de Peregrinos de La Faba – €8
20.33 miles / 32.72 km
I barley slept. I was up at 3AM. I went to try and take a shower before leaving but couldn’t because the shower was still a ‘camping ground’ by a bunch of men. Went back to my room, packed up, stopped by the ‘kitchen’ and made a cup of tea. My roommate decided she was going to leave too. She let me use her hotspot which was very nice of her. I was able to download my maps and talk to my Jesenia for a while and then started walking at 6:07AM. About 20 minutes after leaving the sad neglected Albergue, the morning was nice and quiet.
I walked in silence through the vineyards, rolling hills and cornfields. After leaving Pieros, I made it through Burbía valley and through El Camino de la Virgen, a spiritual landscape for the locals. There was a steady climb into Villafranca del Bierzo, a small town founded by French monks from Cluny in 1070. Villafranca del Bierzo is also the 10th of the 13 stages of the Camino, as defined by the Codex Calixtinus. Did a little sightseeing then followed the scalloped shells to the bridge over Burbía river. Stayed parallel to the highway.
About 5 miles into the walk, I entered my favoritee part of todays’ walk- Trabadelo’s ancient Chestnut Forest. The trail goes between old Chestnut trees. There was something special about walking through this quiet forest knowing that my presence here has just added to the many pilgrims that have passed through since AD 850 or thereafter. Amazing 😊 The Camino led me to a vibrant café in Trabadelos full of pilgrims from the Albergue next door.
I stopped for a cup of coffee with a slice of toast and used their WiFi to reload my Bueno Camino map. I made new friends in the café and reconnected with old friends. Now, I ran into a guy who was supper happy to see me and give me a big hug. He introduced me to his new friends, told me crazy stories of his Camino since we last saw each other in Astorga. It was after we left the café, and he went on ahead of me that I realized I don’t remember his name. I know we met in Astorga, but I can’t remember his name. I wonder if I’ll see him again.
A lot of people joined the trail. So, it was crowded for a bit. The good thing is that the trail was wide. I made it to Vega de Valcarce and went to Iglesia de la Magdalena, another old church built in the 16th century. I spent some time inside then went sightseeing. I meant to stop in Vega de Valcarce for the night but the Albergue I was supposed to stay at was temporarily closed and the one that was open was €30 for a bed.
I decided to walk the 2 miles to the next town for a cheaper bed. The only Albergue in Las Herrerías, a very small town with nothing much to do or see wasn’t opening until 2PM. Las Herrerías is known for its large iron forge near Valcarce River. They have a Roman style bridge from the 15th century that you cross to get through the town. Because it was only 11:10AM, I decided to walk another 2 miles to La Faba. It was an uphill hike from Las Herrerías.
The narrow trail to La Faba was very interesting. It was a hike through more chestnut trees. I managed to pick more good chestnuts. This was a fun and exhilarating hike up hill. I was amazed at how my body and heart were doing. When I reached the top of the slope, I found myself reciting part of Pastor John Osteen’s declaration, “…I boldly confess: my mind is alert, my heart is receptive. {my body is strong-I added this part 😊} I will never be the same…”
I made my way to Albergue de Peregrinos de La Faba run by the German Friends of the Camino Association. It was closed and when I got there which was confusing because according to the app, it was supposed to be open. I sat outside and pulled out my maps to see how far the next Albergue is located. It was in O Cebreiro, over three miles uphill.
I was surprised at myself when I looked at my Apple watch and saw that I had already clocked in 20 miles. I don’t think I can do another three miles. Thankfully, Iglesia de San Andrés, reconstructed in the 18th century, was right next to the Albergue, and it was open. I left my stuff in front of the Albergue and went inside the church for prayer and meditation.
When I was done, I had decided, I was going to start the slow hike up to O Cebreiro. Just as I was about to leave, guess who pulled up in a bright red car-the three hospitaleros. They were coming back from lunch. Boy, was I happy to hear the Albergue was only closed for lunch. I was welcomed and made to feel at home. Checked in. Given a tour of the place. Made my bed and went to take my long overdue shower. They have shampoo, a hairdryer and actual towels. I was able to wash and dry my hair.
The hospitality was great. This is the cleanest, spotless, and well organized Albergue I’ve ever had the pleasure to visit. I had the best shower, washed my clothes and went to the restaurant in town to use their free WiFi. Weather forecast for tomorrow is heavy rains starting at 2AM. I guess I’ll be walking in the rain. I planned for tomorrow and downloaded all the maps that I’ll need. I went to evening mass for the pilgrims at Iglesia de San Andrés. The mass was very nice and very moving. We shared our reasons for being on the Camino and prayed together.
After mass, I came to the kitchen to help make dinner and who was sitting at the table eating noodles? Monika! We hugged, we laughed, we talked and were so happy to see each other. I thought I wasn’t going to see her again. She was on my mind a lot and I am happy God brought us to this Albergue. This is beautiful. Fabio, a retired chef made dinner. Me and other pilgrims helped. We had a communal dinner. We learnt a lot about the Albergue from the volunteers. Made more friends, had tea then went to bed. What an eventful day.
Day 25
September 4, 2023
La Faba to Triacastela
Albergue Aitzenea – €10
17.08 miles / 27.49 km
It had rained earlier and by the time I was leaving, it wasn’t anymore, and I didn’t complain. I was up early as usual. Fabio was up early too. He made us German coffee with some leftover cookies and a slice of bread from Pieter. I woke up with a little back pain. Don’t really know how but it’s a bit uncomfortable. I took some pain medication. Sandra and Matteus were kind enough to give me the doctor’s information in O Cerbriero in case I needed one. I left the Albergue at 6:10AM after a beautiful send-off from Sandra and Matteus.
I made my way to the village path through La Faba. The very steep incline continued up to La Laguna. Soon after entering the town, I crossed the boarder between León and Galicia. The terrain was steep, the ground was wet and some parts slippery. The cow dung didn’t help. I was extra careful with every step that I took.
Right before I reached the manmade wall of stones, the left side of the trail opened up to beautiful views of mountains. It was cloudy for sunrise, but the beauty of mother nature was still there. At the end of the low manmade wall, I found La Pequeña Peregrina, a bronze sculpture representing a woman resting with her back to the León mountains. This is the first bronze sculpture by Miguel Couto, represented by a woman on on the Camino.
Finally made it to O Cebriero, the third highest peak on the Camino, at 3,364 feet/1,330 meters. the final major threshold over the Cantabrian mountains. I have also entered Galicia. I did a little sightseeing, then joined the Camino. By then, the trail was busy with pilgrims from O Cebriero. I made new friends. Remember the guy whose name I couldn’t remember? Adam 😊 He spent the night in O Cebriero. We walked together for a bit then he went on ahead of me.
He’s a fast walker. It started raining a little when I got to Liñares. This time, I had my poncho in the side pocket, so it only took me two minutes to take it out and put it on. After Liñares, there is an uphill climb to Alto de San Roque, one of the higher altitude points at 4,167 feet. It was very windy up there. This point was named after a hermitage San Roque who made the pilgrimage in the 14th century from France. Today, the spot is marked with a modern bronze sculpture of Saint James the pilgrim walking into the wind.
I passed through small hamlets, some with a few inhabitants and some empty-abandoned. Fonfría was interesting. As I was passing through, I ran into an old lady selling homemade crepes. I didn’t want the crepe, but this old lady insisted I take it. I told her in my broken Spanish, ‘por favor no gracias’, her response was to put it in my hands. At this point, all I could say was ‘gracias’ and what does she say? ‘Donativo’ with her hand out.
I gave her the €5 that I had in loose change, and she went back to her ‘station’ to wait for her next victim. I wonder if she does this to everyone. Oh well. The views from Fonfría’s high altitudes were amazing. I spent a few minutes at the top of Fonfría before starting my descent through forested valleys and cow farms to Biduedo, a small hamlet that is home to what is considered the tiniest chapel on the Camino.
There was no dull moment on the trail today. Ran into a lot of cows, including this one herd that was being herded by a herding dog. On the outskirts of Triacastela after oak and chestnut forest is an 800-year-old chestnut tree in the center of Ramil de Triacastela. This is one of the many sacred trees on the Camino. I did some sightseeing in Triacastela before making my way to the albergue.
I checked in and went through my usual routine after check in. Cooked some pasta then took a four-hour nap. When I woke up from my nap, I found two humongous apples on my backpack from a Camino angel😊Went to the supermarket after and bought a can of tuna in tomato sauce, bread, a small bag of chips and a can of sprite. That was my dinner. Monika made it to the albergue a few hours after I arrived.
Day 26
September 5, 2023
Triacastela to Sarria
Albergue Credencial – €12
17.73 miles / 28.53 km
This morning started on a sour note. One of the two old ladies that I was rooming with complained that I went to the bathroom last night. She wasn’t nice about it. Some people just love to find fault in others. I brushed the negative attitude off, packed up and left. It’s a beautiful day to be on the Camino.
Today was the first time in a long time that I left after 6:30AM. The good thing about leaving early is that I had the trail to myself. A few minutes after leaving Triacastela, the Camino split into two directions: right yellow arrows take you straight to Sarria and left yellow arrows take you to Sarria via Samos. I had already decided last night that I was going to Samos despite the added four miles.
So, I went left. First it was a walk along a quiet highway then crossing over to walk through a wooded area which I loved. It was quiet, still, silent – just the sound of my footsteps and walking stick. The terrain was beautiful. The ever-changing landscape was nice to see. I walked through a few abandoned hamlets and some nice fairy tale looking hamlets with very little life. By then, I had entered Samos which means ‘Place of Monks’. I don’t know why but my first sight of the Monasterio de San Julían de Samos from the hills put a smile on my face.
I made my way into the valley, through what looked like an empty hamlet with interesting stone roofed buildings, into the town, crossed a bridge with large metal shells. And before I knew it, I was standing in front of Monasterio de San Julían de Samos, one of Spain’s oldest, largest and active monasteries. It is believed to have been founded in the 6th century. It came under Benedictine order around the 10th century and has remained under their control. I only waited for less than two minutes before the giftshop opened. By then, more people had showed up from the tour bus. I got my ‘sello’ from the giftshop and my tour ticket.
The tour started a few minutes later. The tour was done in Spanish, too bad for me. I relied on Google to translate. The forty minutes tour took us through the chapel, two cloisters and up to the second floor where Enrique Navarro’s paintings depict the life of Saint Benedict, the founder of Benedictine Order.
Because this is an active monastery, it includes the monks’ living quarters and workspaces. It also has an Albergue, a hospice, and a library. We spent a good amount of time in the baroque abbey church. The bright and solemn church was our last stop before heading out to cloister. This was definitely the highlight of my day. So glad I came. I spent about an hour sightseeing in Samos.
I followed the way-markers along the highway for a while then it pulled away towards a narrow valley and into A Balsa, a very small village with lots of grazing cows in green fields. It was a steady climb towards a fountain with a green and white striped scallop shell. I continued the walk through the more open fields, small dairy farm villages, forests of chestnuts-couldn’t resist picking more chestnuts 😊 For some reason, the yellow way-markers are so far apart. A few times, I had to double check on my phone to make sure I was still on the trail because I didn’t see any yellow arrows for a while.
I was in Sarria after 2PM. I found a nice quiet Albergue at the entrance of the town. I checked in, then went out sightseeing. I followed the way-markers from the Albergue through Vigo de Sarria. I crossed the beautiful tree-lined riverside promenade. I went on to climb the steep steps up to Rúa Maior, where the number of lodging and pilgrims increased. I stopped at Iglesia de Santa Maria for some reflection. Ran into Al and a few minutes later, into Monika at a small café. She had just arrived and was having a cold drink before heading to her Albergue. We did what we do best-take lots of pictures😊
We parted ways, and I went back downhill towards my Albergue. I continued my sightseeing all the while, looking for something to eat. I found a pastry shop that was selling chorizo stuffed wheat bread which looked interesting. I stopped at the bar next to the Albergue for cold cans of orange Kas. Back in the Albergue, showered, laundry, ate and spoke to my Jesenia and one other. I was the only one in the Albergue until after 10PM when two other pilgrims joined me. What a day!
Reflections
Celebrating my birthday on the Camino was a serene and meaningful experience filled with shared walks, scenic landscapes, and encounters with history. From traversing medieval bridges to exploring historic towns, each moment added depth to my journey. Leaving a stone at Cruz de Ferro, the highest point on the French Camino, became a powerful spiritual peak. Despite challenges like rain and discomfort in the albergue, I eagerly anticipated each day, finding solace in nature, forging connections with fellow pilgrims, and engaging in personal reflections on this profound spiritual journey.
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